MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

ETERNAL SLOW PACE

2023.10.02

The Hermès woman appears free and carefree immersed in a timeless country imagery. SS24 does not concede anything to the superfluous or to ostentatious embellishments, but presents garments of delicate and perfect workmanship.

Hermès’ set is a summer scene amidst sand dunes and wild flowers from which emerges a narrow, spontaneous country lane in beige tones. It is the place where the SS24 silhouettes advance through the tall grass, returning from picking large bunches of flowers in the surrounding hills. Around the catwalk a calm and relaxed atmosphere; the audience aware of the illusion is released into an environment that celebrates the natural beauty of things, like the sounds of wildlife that fill the space, gradually mingling with the crescendo of drums. The few elements of the show build a bucolic and relaxed atmosphere that hints at the visual horizon of the Hermès collection while maintaining a certain curiosity. The Maison codes are constantly reinterpreted by Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski’s eye in favour of a purist but also modern and fresh fashion that speaks above all of the relationship women have with their clothes. Each season more and more, the brand’s values seem to become more and more focused on building a discourse on sisterhood and friendship, a way of creation through connection and through love that is echoed above all in women’s clothes, everyday and extraordinary at the same time. The Spring Summer 24 collection reflects a young and contemporary society, defined by a character in constant mutation, which adapts quickly to change but which craves a slow tempo that can negotiate the speed of modern and eclectic cities. The elegance and timeless character of Hermès finds stability in the slow movement of nature

The coolness of a prairie, bathed in daylight. Blades of grass rustle under footsteps, dialogue with matter, invite a walk in the peace of the vegetation. The senses awaken little by little.

Amidst the landscape of wheat ears and wild flowers come the first looks reflecting the dreamlike atmosphere and the desire for a wardrobe for an easy, clean and sophisticated lifestyle. The apparently very simple clothes contain excellent product workmanship and new meanings towards the quiet luxury attitude, capable of breaking away from the previous collection. The silhouettes with hyper sharp lines are characterised by a sporty and utilitarian approach, ornaments are limited and the style is once again no-frills. As evidenced by the ribbed knit bralette tops, the short tank tops with ray backs and the geometric apron dresses contrast sharply with the elegance of professional attire presented by the wide-leg trousers and relaxed-cut suits. These lather adapt to movement like a second skin and draw the line of the shoulders emphasising the waist, as in the pencil skirts and the burgundy waistcoats. It is a collection that wants to indulge the habits and inclinations of the body, discovering it without exposing it too much. That of Hermès is in fact discreet clothing but of extreme quality and tradition, expressed for example in the choice of top-to-toe colours. The shades are exactly those of the leather goods: Rouge H for the burgundy, Étoupe grey for the stucco and Opera Red for the scarlet that arrived at the end of the show. Hermès being a Maison renowned for working with leather, the use of this material was skilfully integrated into the garments, from the lapels of the long trench coats to the shorts with baggy waists; while the explored possibilities of leather were successfully expressed on the sandals presented in all colours.

“You recognise yourself in these moments of friendship, as in the clothes you wear: light, free, open, solid. They are made to protect without hiding, to wrap without hindering.”

– Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski

Understated silhouettes play with the house’s codes: sleek coats become an extension of a riding jacket, a classic trench coat becomes as light as a poncho and trousers as voluminous as a skirt. Even the suit is reinvented, turning into a feminine everyday uniform, characterised by rounded shapes and swinging lines. The accessories reinforce the brand’s codes by taking their craftsmanship to an even higher level, such as the half-moon bags in various sizes and the oversize buckets, as well as the Birkin bag, the Panier d’été and Pochette d’été bags in panama and leather. It is a subtle dialogue between bodies and clothes, where materials play with perceptions, revealing elegance in transparency. Vanhée-Cybulski presents a collection that remains true to the understated elegance of Hermès, but through a more modern and sensual lens. The last collection presented by Hermès is a symphony dedicated to leather goods, marking the transition between proposals that show and conceal – Day & Night – only through fabrics and workmanship. It is a monochrome promenade that manifests the lightness and craftsmanship of the shapes of a heritage that is sensitively alive and cultured. Thus the landscape breathes. The wind rises once again and the rustle of skirts on the catwalk recalls the sound of leaves.

Spring is in its prime. An impromptu picnic, unhurried chatter, the song of a bird, the absence of obligations. The breeze gently lulls the flowers and leaves all around. The landscape breathes. The sun caresses the skin and wakes it up.

VERSACE JEANS COUTURE

METROPOLITAN NOCTURNES

2024.04.15

Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.

FASHION

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind

2024.03.06

Miu Miu delves into our individual life lexicons. The collection unfolds with a diverse array of interpretations of traditional uniforms and attire; surgeons, assistants, teachers, and waitresses parade down the runway. Miuccia Prada’s dark youth is captured in its tight proportions and contrasting hues. A futuristic prelude sets the stage, introducing viewers to the complexities of human memory.