MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

GENTLE VIBRATIONS

2023.06.26

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

The Hermès man appears free, serene and fresh, with an unmistakably sensual appeal from iridescent details. Transparencies, subtle layering and the search for unique materials are revealed.

The Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection reaffirms the Maison’s class and attention to the concepts of beauty and elegance. For the occasion, creative director Véronique Nichanian presents decidedly sensual proposals, opening a different chink to the idea of savoir-faire with which the world of Hermès is associated. The designer’s desire is to bring to the stage a défilé that is increasingly fluid, in a social moment in which the old stereotypical gender norms no longer exist; in fact, the stylistic choices of lengths, volumes and materials refer to hybrid elements, to a fusion of feminine and masculine wardrobe. A unique collection of Hermès elements: technical fabrics, cashmere, silks, semi-transparent cottons and different bags. Unlike the French fashion house’s usual regal character, this collection appears relaxed and irreverent, a real renunciation of everything that appears to be opulent, preferring instead a sophisticated search for a fine, wearable aesthetic.

“The summer is serene and joyful, the air is cool, the charm is unmistakably sensual.”

– Véronique Nichanian

The lines deviate from the many seasonal trends that emphasize bulky, oversize silhouettes to make way for summery, sophisticated lines in which bodies appear free. The volumes and fabrics chosen are light, technical and semi-transparent; cotton is reimagined in the form of a grid patterned mesh in shirts and jackets instead see sheer fabrics with coarse finishes. The color palette is understated and mineral: desert, steam, ice and sage tones. The nuances blend and reflect each other. The shorts, almost hot pats, in cotton, linen or lambskin, are actually very short and echo the mini-skirts of womenswear; the long ones, on the other hand, are cut at hip height, to widen through pleats and fall straight down to mid-ankle. The length gives way to high-soled sandals with straps in black, cream and brown tones; the second variant, on the other hand, is a same upper designed in calfskin leather and combined with a sole shaped with rubber studs. The dresses are accessorized with double stirrup belts, similar to watch straps, necklaces and bracelets with palladium hardware (like some of the more expensive Birkins), and a variety of Twilly silks, all paired with an array of iconic bags. Mousqueton bucket ideas in calfskin, classic Haut à Courroies in brown and navy gray, Cordage tote bags in soft rope and lattice leather as in shirts, and Garden Party Voyage in H canvas and prints.

With this collection, Nichanian decides to discover the male body through a skillful quest for innovation, honoring the maison’s rich heritage while bringing a breath of freshness and gracefulness to the stage. A deft creative flair and great versatility allow the creative director to work forward to an equally enviable proposition, creating shadows and tracing patterns, revealing transparencies, unveiling the subtle layering and relief effects of materials. Light plays with space, and everything vibrates gently.

A collection soft and sweet as a summer breeze, stirred by a tender strength. Clothing as architecture.

THE GIVENCHY CODE

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From tailored suits to evening gowns, each piece is enriched with details that evoke the heritage of the Maison. A cinematic chromatic symphony, ranging from black to navy blue, lends the collection the typical Givenchy boldness, while graphic necklines and sartorial formality sculpt a distinctive silhouette.

POWER IS OUTSPOKEN

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An elegant sense of power pervades the latest Saint Laurent runway. There’s a duality that merges elegance and provocation, a carnal convergence between garment and body. Revisiting Yves’s codes, blouses, shirts, ultra-tight skirts, and silk dresses culminate in a powerful aesthetic imagery.

FW24

Creative freedom

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A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

FALL/WINTER 24

Impalpable Visions

2024.02.26

Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

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Minimal frills, maximum impact

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The FW24 collection by Jil Sander is abundant in rounded silhouettes and soft lines, yet with character. The balance between form and comfort fills the enveloping coats and sartorial details: each piece reflects a constant pursuit of effortless sophistication.