MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

THE OXYMORON
OF HERMÈS

2023.02.01

The Hermès Men Autumn Winter 2023 collection based on the oxymoron has a contrasting character: the garments show completely new shapes combined with more classic materials such as leather, creating an elegant and sensual man for day and evening. 

For Men’s Fall-Winter 2023 Hermès presents a series of garments with a contrasting flavor, sweet and edgy at the same time. The men featured in the collection can feel free to play with the pieces and have fun combining them in different ways, juxtaposing elements of different lengths and alternating volumes to create looks with completely new shapes. The essentiality of the Maison is shaken, continuing along the line of rigor, with precision and elegance, new proportions take shape.The models move with a confident and careful step, opposite to the gentle movement of the dresses, creating a new balance, also enriched to a hint of sensuality that is shown through the soft and classy materials combined with hidden and unexpected details. Throughout the show, one understands how each dress is made by the wise hand of a craftsman, talking about the complexity and precise work behind each piece. The French Maison’s timeless dresses for the upcoming winter season are enriched with innovation, creating a tale that oscillate between comfort and sophistication. Coffee, brown, caramel and camel, fog, navy, ivory and black: the palette announcing the coming season reveals muted tones that harmoniously converse with each other, crossed with lighter and intense colors as winter light.

HERMèS men fw23.

“I like the idea to play with the vestiaire masculin. After Covid, when we used to dress in the light comfortable jogging, now we want to be dressed more sexy for the evening. Wearing some earrings and something sexy like that, and I like the idea of doing the same in the daylight.”

– Véronique Nichanian

Hermès Men fw23.

Coffee, brown, caramel and camel, fog, navy, ivory and black: the palette announcing the coming season reveals muted tones that harmoniously converse with each other, crossed with lighter and intense colors as winter light. A dark gray raincoat cinched at the waist and fastened on the chest by a metal snap hook opens the show and anticipates to the audience the character of the entire show: contrasting, elegant and innovative. Leather remains Hermès main material, which it uses on different garments for the coming season: wide-leg pants in black calfskin worn with an exposed belt alternate with soft open or half-zip jackets and sweatshirts with woven leather details. Soft materials such as cashmere and wool are used for coats, turtlenecks, cardigans, and sweatshirts with quilted maxi checks, while others are more technical shape water-repellent raincoats. The designer expresses a desire to create a collection that includes both evening and daytime dresses that are both refined and sensual. The show concludes with a series of elegant garments, presenting more fitted sweaters worn under double-breasted flannel suits with maxi calfskin pockets or single-breasted jackets with pleated wool pants. Models wear triple-strap boots or sportier shoes worn with a range of bags presented in smaller shapes and exaggerated sizes: multi-pocketed Haute à Courrois, Plume and Kelly in a variety of fabrics such as calfskin, matte crocodile and cowhide. To underscore the collection’s sophistication and innovation, accessories included white gold and diamond earrings and chains, and leather necklaces from which hang glittering metal cubes. The designer feels the need to create an innovative collection that can make the man elegant by day and by night, meeting the need to feel comfort and sensual at the same time. The refined materials and the use of classic leather, an unmistakable element of the Maison, are enriched with innovative details that give life to a new man, serious with an edgy look who moves in a sweet and refined way.

hermès men fw23.
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