In the new FW24 collection by Hermès, the versatility of clothing defines the attitude of the wearer: the silhouettes are animated by a playful effervescence, while the (de)construction of men’s clothing is reinvented through a play of shapes and counterforms, with cuts and cutouts, adorned with graphic signatures. Véronique Nichanian has presented a collection that places the brand’s multiplicities at the center: the equestrian roots of Hermès are subtle, and dandy chic becomes elegant. Thanks to tweed and wool, the collection transports fantasy to the English countryside, but with leather accents, whether in accessories or in bomber jackets for horse riding, making it bolder. Classic outerwear is revisited with subtle accents, and various essentials of the male wardrobe dominate the collection, including a black leather A-2 aviator jacket and long leather coats with belts, as well as knitwear with argyle patterns. The volumes are sharp and generous, peacoats and jackets are short, enveloping coats lengthen the silhouette, and slim pants elongate the leg. Irreverence is at play in these garments with and for different lives: reversible, layerable, transformable. A double reading in which rubber garments meet Prince of Wales suits; double collars and tubular scarves provide warmth while neo-jackets slip on like hooded sweatshirts.
“I think it’s vital to move, inject color, play, twist things to surprise people. We always do things at Hermès with a sense of humor, lightness, and charm.”
Precise off-centerings, designed shifts. The materials are soft and strong at the same time: dipped lamb leather and leather, deer flannel, cashmere and alpaca, wool, and glossy calfskin. Sliding pockets, maxi-chevron, are the anamorphosis of a horse’s mantle. The collection moves through a palette of dusty grays and classic blacks and browns, with shades of earthy greens and light purples, but also pumpkin, anise, crocodile, khaki: between glossy and matte nuances, a liberated sophistication emerges.