MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Bold Composure

2024.03.03

The Hermès subject redefines its style from the ground up, from cowboy boots to snug leather pants to shearling outerwear. Vanhee signs laser-cut silhouettes and hyper-defined accessories, while green, black, and ruby highlight the perfect mix of sex appeal and french savoir faire.

For the new FW24 collection, the Hermès Equestrian Bikeuse builds her outfits from the ground up: pointed-toe cowboy boots are paired with short and flared stretch leather pants, and flat-knee biker boots with side zippers accompany midi skirts and dresses. Leather, studs, slits, red, black, zippers, and more leather; The outerwear – rubies, greens, blacks, grays, and cream – accompany the runway from start to finish: cabans with shawl collar in shaved shearling, fitted equestrian jackets and others with rounded shoulders and sleeves, and, exceptionally, a jacket embroidered with shiny ostrich feathers. The boldest pieces highlight ribbed leather leggings and vinyl pencil skirts with side or front center slits, including one with small metallic inserts arranged to adorn the edges. This new Hermès collection focuses on several key silhouettes, including a precisely laser-cut riding jacket, cinched at the waist with a hidden leather belt and without external frills. Accessories with ultra-defined shapes complement leather pencil skirts or rust-colored leggings. Followed by an elegant brown coat with fur trim worn with matching pants and cowboy boots, alongside a snug black biker jacket subtly studded in silver. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulsk willingly explores but always with sophisticated refinement a openly sexual territory that deviates from a typically decorous space, playing with more explicit pieces mixed with soft printed silk dresses and delicately studded Hermès to wear on horseback or motorcycle.

And so it becomes clear that this time Hermès has decided to further strengthen its arsenal with a lot of sex appeal, and it does so here with short ribbed cashmere sweaters over high-waisted velvet jodhpur pants, bateau wardrobe with studded leather details, semi-shrunken bomber jackets and leggings made with tight ribs comparable to those used on sports socks. Under a wall of pouring rain, the clothes seem, but are not, an afterthought in the Maison’s collection, and those of this season are ultra discreet, embellished only by subtle prints and silk or jacquard scarves. Continuing in the runway, that equestrian style brand identity evolves and transforms into an even more daring biker style. Two in one. Knitwear, soft dresses with snug silhouettes, but also suits, raincoats, and tailored jackets. The bags – the quintessential code of the French House – are worn close to the chest, almost as if to communicate essentiality, while the palette boots are among the collection’s protagonists. The characteristic savoir-faire finds space in sharp cuts, short zippers, étrivière belts, and diamond patterns. To accompany these cuts, stretch materials embrace composure and balance, comfort and sophistication. Completing the looks are new Birkins tone-on-tone expertly matched to the cohesive style of the French Maison, with a focus on iconic Hermès designs.

“The idea was to rethink the concept of horse riding, moving from a traditional approach to a more bold and rebellious one”.

– Nadège Vanhee-Cybulsk

VERSACE JEANS COUTURE

METROPOLITAN NOCTURNES

2024.04.15

Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.

FASHION

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind

2024.03.06

Miu Miu delves into our individual life lexicons. The collection unfolds with a diverse array of interpretations of traditional uniforms and attire; surgeons, assistants, teachers, and waitresses parade down the runway. Miuccia Prada’s dark youth is captured in its tight proportions and contrasting hues. A futuristic prelude sets the stage, introducing viewers to the complexities of human memory.