Hermès creates an experience around the different hair styles of women: the French fashion house gets carried away and inspired by the sensual movement of hair, recreating it through the garments of the Fall Winter 23 collection. In fact, the tones of the clothes exactly evoke the natural shades that dye the manes: an intense red look opens the show, the color of designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s new bob, and then continues with enveloping and warm shades of browns, beiges, grays and yellows and a deep black. The Creative Director makes sophisticated shapes that create sinuous movements, combining several different techniques and materials in one monochromatic look that initiate a constant dialogue with each other: the weaves and knots that move in nature come to life in dresses that sway flexibly on the runway. Hair tells a lot about a person’s identity, it’s an expression of character, power and seduction, becoming the incipit to tell the innate modernity and elegance of the brand.
“Tribute to hair, human hair.
And the symbolism of it as a feminine attribute.”
Clean lines accompany the garments of the entire collection: from the first appearance on the catwalk, the audience’s attentive eye focuses on the details, paying special attention to the materials used for the clothes, different from those of the accessories. The figure outlined in the course of the fashion show is refined and classy. The Hermès woman for the coming winter season is sensual, leaving no room for transparencies or necklines, but only through the shapes of the garments that enhance those of the body, like a second skin. Midi skirts are paired with long, soft sweaters and fitted tops, while knee-length bermuda shorts, a meeting point between womenswear and menswear, matched with padded or shearling jackets. Leather remains one of the fundamental elements for the Fashion House, which creates entire unmistakable looks by declining the fabric in different ways according to shapes and colors: in the yellow returns short jackets fastened at the waist by a thin belt, gray features entire suits or quilted jackets, while the dark garments at the end of the show turn to leather as the unique protagonist. The collection ends with a series of pleated and wrap dresses with embroidered metal appliqués. The gentle lines change shape as you walk, with each step the garments seem to change appearance following the movement of the body. The midi lengths that characterize next winter are worn with tall suede boots with rounded toes that gently wrap around the legs and overall appear as a continuation of the garments.
Among mini bags are buckets, declined in every color variation, and a small handbag with the appearance of a geometric shape; Birkins make a comeback on the catwalk with bridles or fringe applications on the sides. The hats, on the other hand, have a rather rigid shape, recalling the one used in horseback riding. Starting from the symbol that hair carries, the designer of the French Maison reflects on the meaning of femininity and creates a series of garments using very few colors, preferring to focus on the different shades of them, resulting in a collection that follows the movement of the woman’s body, enhances it, and accompanies it towards a contemporary and elegant everyday life.