When prompted to improvise, the free impulses of individual minds come together to create new common expressions. This concept dominates Gucci’s FW23 menswear collection just released on the runway. The polyhedric creatives and artisans of the Maison managed to represent their own individuality in a unique but at the same time collective way, creating “The aesthetics of improvisation”.
The setting of the runway was wide and circular, and at the center had a stage hosting the rock band Ceramic Dog by Marc Ribot that performed during the show. The soundtrack was written just for the event, the melody was articulated with the progressing of the show, with strong recall to jazz and rock music, genres typically known for improvisation. The band stood in the middle of the room and the models walked around the stage, the circular shape symbolises Gucci’s creative machine when engined, accelerating even more the pace of its work.
Improvising is a collaborative act.
The collection takes inspiration from the classic archetypes of the male wardrobe, showing a new vision of seduction. The emblem of the collection is the Crystal GG first created in the 70s, realized today in a coated Canvas material for pastel-coloured clothes, working jumpsuits, bags and shoes with relaxed and oversize structures. The tailored silhouettes are wide and fluid with removable elements, these details allow to transform a jacket into a vest and shorten the length of a pair of trousers.
There are contrasting elements such as sportswear taken from the Gucci archives of the 80s that recalls dance, mixed with biker garments that pay homage to 2000s fashion. It also presents new creations such as deconstructed sports suits, evening trousers that become long skirts with a sculptural drape, materials that are not what they seem: a classic jogger trousers presented however in light leather and a caban coat that seems covered in feathers, but is in actually a meticulous beaded embroidery.
Even the accessories emphasize the same concept: the jewels evoke archival elements such as the Piston closure designed by Tom Ford on the bags, clothes-hanger worn as must-have accessories, and the Crystal GG on soft travel bags. A new approach is adopted for the iconic Dionysus which is presented without structure, while the Jackie is declined in pastel-coloured crocodile. Classic footwear is also offered such as the 70s ankle boot with a rounded toe, a Princetown heel with a “worn” effect, while a new range of colours for a soft and quilted biker boot.
With the redundant theme of improvisation, Gucci has been able to reconfirm its distinctive imprint through the revisitation of the most iconic pieces, but also thanks to a skilful research. A clear exploration of the archives, with the aim of finding new hidden inspirations to be re-proposed in a contemporary key.
