MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

Improvisation Aesthetics

2023.01.14

Just like theater and music, Gucci adopts the formula of improvisation in the creative process to realize the FW23 menswear collection. A careful research and exploration of the Maison’s heritage.

When prompted to improvise, the free impulses of individual minds come together to create new common expressions. This concept dominates Gucci’s FW23 menswear collection just released on the runway. The polyhedric creatives and artisans of the Maison managed to represent their own individuality in a unique but at the same time collective way, creating “The aesthetics of improvisation”.

 

The setting of the runway was wide and circular, and at the center had a stage hosting the rock band Ceramic Dog by Marc Ribot that performed during the show. The soundtrack was written just for the event, the melody was articulated with the progressing of the show, with strong recall to jazz and rock music, genres typically known for improvisation. The band stood in the middle of the room and the models walked around the stage, the circular shape symbolises Gucci’s creative machine when engined, accelerating even more the pace of its work.

Improvising is a collaborative act.

The collection takes inspiration from the classic archetypes of the male wardrobe, showing a new vision of seduction. The emblem of the collection is the Crystal GG first created in the 70s, realized today in a coated Canvas material for pastel-coloured clothes, working jumpsuits, bags and shoes with relaxed and oversize structures. The tailored silhouettes are wide and fluid with removable elements, these details allow to transform a jacket into a vest and shorten the length of a pair of trousers.

There are contrasting elements such as sportswear taken from the Gucci archives of the 80s that recalls dance, mixed with biker garments that pay homage to 2000s fashion. It also presents new creations such as deconstructed sports suits, evening trousers that become long skirts with a sculptural drape, materials that are not what they seem: a classic jogger trousers presented however in light leather and a caban coat that seems covered in feathers, but is in actually a meticulous beaded embroidery.

gucci men fw23.

Even the accessories emphasize the same concept: the jewels evoke archival elements such as the Piston closure designed by Tom Ford on the bags, clothes-hanger worn as must-have accessories, and the Crystal GG on soft travel bags. A new approach is adopted for the iconic Dionysus which is presented without structure, while the Jackie is declined in pastel-coloured crocodile. Classic footwear is also offered such as the 70s ankle boot with a rounded toe, a Princetown heel with a “worn” effect, while a new range of colours for a soft and quilted biker boot.

 

With the redundant theme of improvisation, Gucci has been able to reconfirm its distinctive imprint through the revisitation of the most iconic pieces, but also thanks to a skilful research. A clear exploration of the archives, with the aim of finding new hidden inspirations to be re-proposed in a contemporary key.

gucci men fw23.

MAISON ALAÏA

A STORY BEHIND THE CLOTHES

2023.03.27

WHERE FASHION AND CREATION MEET ART AND BEAUTY

 

Pieter Mulier for Alaïa returns to embody the Maison’s unique history in a personal and intimate artistic vision that is carried away by human emotions and connections.

fall winter 23

CHANEL

2023.03.08

THE CAMELLIA IS MORE THAN A THEME

 

The winter camellia flower runs through the Fall Winter 23 collection seeding little signs of joy and romance. Virginie Viard previews the collection with a short film and photo series inspired by the famous movie Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?”.

MIU MIU

WAYS OF LOOKING

2023.03.08

LOOKING IS A WINDOW TO THINKING 

 

Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu presents the co-ed Fall Winter 23 collection featuring familiar garments that encapsulate gestures and movements around the figure.

LOUIS VUITTON

WHAT IS FRENCH STYLE

2023.03.07

A REFINED AND PARADOXICAL ENIGMA

 

An open book that chronicles Nicholas Ghesquière’s Fall Winter 23 collection at Louis Vuitton and asks the characteristics of French style. A question that remains unanswered, an evolving fashion with infinite fascination.

collection

HERMÈS

2023.03.06

INCANDESCENCE AND SENSUALITY 

 

Hermès Fall Winter 23 collection brings the same features and colors of women’s different hair styles to the runways as a symbol of elegance and femininity. Like the manes, the lines of the garments follow the silhouette and take shape as they walk.