MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

A HYBRID DIALOGUE

2023.05.17

Text by Chiara Cappelli

GUCCI CRUISE 2024

 

The digital generation takes the runway, transforming Gucci’s language into a cosmopolitan dialogue, shared and developed by closely connected communities across continents. 

A new language, an entirely unexpected dialogue that reveals Gucci’s more cosmopolitan side. It is discovered through a renewed visual grammar drawn from different geographical and historical codes: it is a shared language, known by the whole world and developed by a digital generation composed of interconnected communities from distant continents. The Italian Maison transports the audience to Seoul, on a journey to discover a dialogue between the brand’s heritage and the stimulating influence of South Korean culture. Gucci analyzes how multicultural fashion finds strong expression in the daily life of big cities, intensifying this great progress with a collection that reflects the global society: the creative legacy of each individual person explodes in the heart of Cruise 2024, reinterpreting the Maison’s codes through an individual and extremely cultural vision. The shapes and colors are transformed giving rise to a series of ever-changing pieces that intensely dialogue with digital reality and new trends developing in different parts of the world. A project that aims to look beyond its limits, beyond its homeland, while establishing a solid and well-structured relationship with a creative developed and innovative reality. After the opening of the first mono-brand store in South Korea in 1998, the bond between the brand and the city of Seoul has continued to grow: today it finds a completely personal balance, turning its gaze to visual codes that demonstrate a marked ability to renew itself and to think about new generations.

Gucci cruise 2024.

The collection explores the dialogue between the House’s own heritage and the South Korean impact that influences it today. 

The audience is faced with a true process of hybridization, manifesting the code shifts between generations inherent to metropolitan dressing: silhouettes, evoking Gucci garments from the late 1990s, share the stage with a color palette typical of the second decade. Wardrobe materials and techniques, on the other hand, give way to the sportier clothing that characterizes the new generation, creating a complete contrast directly inspired by daily life on the streets of Seoul. Each garment contributes to the process the Maison has put in place, moving ever closer to a dynamic and universal aesthetic. The more classic style, dictated by the jacket-skirt suit in bouclé fabric and the silk blouse, is blended with tops and long dresses made entirely from the fabric of diving suits, recalling the windsurfers who frequent the Han River; body-hugging silhouettes, on the other hand, are contrasted with the broad codes derived from the world of skateboarding. To proceed in the hybridization process, Gucci gives life to a careful study in deconstruction: removable sleeves are true accessories, while zippers helps the pants expand and become oversize. A-line dresses feature bold, sculptural lines, jackets become increasingly outlined by stiffening the shape of squared shoulders, and the bomber jacket is transformed into a mini evening skirt. Directly from the Korean world come the ribbons over monochrome tops, as well as the hyper-sensory biomorphic motifs of the artist Ram Han. The language of the digital generation becomes even more expressive through accessories: bags appear deformed or reduced in size, reinterpreted with ornamental motifs and with references to aquatic activities. These also bring to life the new boot taken from the late 1990s and reimagined into  mules shoes.

Gucci cruise 2024.

The collection illuminate a study of the global urban wardrobe invigorated by the inimitable instinct for fashion expressed on the streets of Seoul. 

The collection is a riot of mixed feelings reflecting the generation expressed in the clothes. In a digital age, Gucci responds by embracing the hybrid character that characterizes modern language, brought about by an exchange of shared stylistic codes. The fashion show takes place inside the ceremonial courtyard of the 14th-century Gyeongbbokgung Palace, located in the heart of Seoul; in the background, however, is the futuristic landscape of the South Korean capital. The choice of a classical and historic location in an avantgarde city expresses the Maison’s need to once again find a meeting point between the past and the future to describe what is now our present. Gucci describes in its own way a universal dialogue that combines creativity, tradition and culture, and that is echoed in the world and in the Maison’s core values. The collection is a celebration of hybridization, innovation, and the city of Seoul, while fulfilling the desire to generate social and lasting impact in modern and contemporary society.

Gucci cruise 2024.

LIVE STREAMING

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Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

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COLLECTION

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SAINT LAURENT

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Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.