MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

A modern gentleman

2024.01.18

Testo di Chiara Belardi

Givenchy Studio Ready-to-Wear Men’s collection for Fall/Winter 2024 was an immersion into the world of contemporary elegance, inspired by the refined style of Hubert de Givenchy. Presented in the salons of 3 Avenue George V, where the founder created his collections, the men’s line explored the public and private duality of Givenchy’s wardrobe, blending sartorial formality with an irresistible off-duty sense of nonchalance, opulence, and seduction.

“Kindness is an expression of character”,  reads the notes of Givenchy’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, created by the French maison’s team. The collective theme explored the concept of the new gentleman, drawing inspiration from the Maison’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, whose wardrobe embodied two contrasting personas: the public and the personal. On the runway, Givenchy Studio reinterpreted Hubert’s iconic blanche blouse, known for being his studio attire, now transformed into an elegant workwear piece available in both sleeved and sleeveless versions. The formal uniform of the renowned designer manifested in suits and coats designed with openings under the sleeves, paying homage to his fondness for capes. The color palette, dominated by sapphire reflections, offered an alternative to classic black, adding a distinctive touch to the collection. Many of these garments showcased a sapphire hue, a color notoriously favored by Givenchy as a substitute for black. Presented in the salons where the founder created his collections, the men’s line explored both a certain public and private duality of Givenchy’s wardrobe and a tension between masculine and feminine. This play of tensions echoes in the decorative motifs of the garments: refined chandelier details, reinterpreted with metallic embroidery and crystals, contrasted with teddy bear coats, bombers, and upholstery-style outerwear. The punk and glam inspiration is evident in the oversized volumes of the pants and the bold cuts of the outerwear, creating a captivating balance between contemporary grit and traditional elegance.

Being a gentleman is a manifestation of personality. Based on grace and gentility, it is at the same time an aura activated by instinct and individuality.

The silhouettes of Prêt-à-Porter Homme convey a skillful journey around the sartorial oeuvre by bringing different generations into dialogue and reinterpreting a new elegance and individuality, offering for all intents and purposes a new perspective on the traditional conception of menswear. Recontextualizing classic codes to create a sophisticated aesthetic free of constraints is one of fashion’s real challenges in order to redefine the archetypes of elegance, which are very often tied to stereotypical conceptions. But the Givenchy show for Fall-Winter 2024 captivates precisely because of its exceptional craftsmanship, fine tailoring and innovative design, combining classic elegance with a bold modern aesthetic. The eccentric details that permeated Hubert’s personal wardrobe are revived in the collection, with raw shearling used in outerwear and as decoration on pants. Ornaments of braided synthetic hair and printed details of hair and shearling add a touch of boldness. The classic cat motif, adapted for details on garments and bags, blends with secret resin accessories and lurex cat eyes, creating a playful and sophisticated atmosphere. The show, which took place while guests could enjoy a splendid Parisian-style breakfast, also celebrates Hubert de Givenchy’s iconic logo belts, with a reprise of the 2G crest applied to the buckles. And then the acessories, long necklaces adorned with elements of personal significance to the founder and signet rings complete the look with a touch of precious elegance. Dandy sunglasses come alive with garishly colored lenses, confirming the collection’s bold approach to gentlemanly style. The collection was able to explore the duality of men’s fashion, offering a visual experience that was both sophisticated and provocative.

A triumph of style, innovation and tradition. One example is the gentleman’s slipper that influences the moccasin, mule, and derby. Style picked up later by a sneaker in mesh and pony skin or fine perforated fabrics. The fusion of work and cowboy boot takes shape in a version with a bold toe and details in knotted leather cord, leather, shearling or pony skin. Respecting Hubert de Givenchy’s love of nature, the Voyou bag becomes a model in hammered buffalo leather, velvety cowhide or shearling, and is transformed into smaller accessories made of brushed leather with an equestrian spirit. The Pandora bag gets a makeover in multi-pocket versions with rich textures such as deerskin, textiles, and cowhide. The archetypes of elegance are redefined and told with a sophistication of casual spirit, the collection captivates with its exceptional craftsmanship, fine tailoring and innovative design.

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