MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Impalpable Visions

2024.02.26

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

Black is an incredible color — end of story.

 

 

 

 

For the Fall/Winter ’24 season, Giorgio Armani embraces black once again: he opens the scene with a square-cut jacket, featuring a front pocket and a mandarin collar in velvet; followed by a long coat adorned with blue petals and a tailored suit embellished with floral shapes embroidered with silver crystals. A series of black dragonflies adorn the shoulders and bodice of a coordinated dress, while embroidered flowers – in shades of pink, burgundy, and dark green – bloom on dark corsets, strapless corset tops, and a robe de soirée that plays with transparencies. A shawl composed of intertwined crystal flowers enters the scene, overlaid on silk black pants and tops, the quintessential status symbol among fabrics. At this point, the palette opens up to jewel tones, illuminating drawstring cargo pants and midnight blue jackets or rather, Armani blue. Embroidered and engraved flowers shine on the front of an emerald dress, a long black skirt, and a three-button tailored jacket. Giorgio Armani’s eternal and astounding evolution continues into the evening, where long and precious dresses follow a slender and poetic, vertical and light silhouette, accompanied by jackets with flared sleeves, long stoles, and fluid trousers.

“In winter there are no flowers, but now you see them here. I conceived them. They evoke happier seasons, and I like the contrast between the dark winter fabrics and the bright flowers”.

 

– Giorgio Armani

Among the predominant colors are midnight blues, intense blacks, and deep greens, yet still luminous and tactile: from the elegance of velvets, satins, and technical silks to the intensity of soft bouclé wools and embroideries. The vision is impalpable and vibrant: personalities capable of blossoming in the cold, with sneakers or low boots on their feet, but always light and present. But this time, black does not only serve as a nocturnal canvas for jackets and dresses. If one shifts their attention to accessories, there are no XL heels or impossible stilettos: Armani focuses on a wide range of low shoes ranging from lace-ups to ballet flats, passing through pointed mules or sock boots. One common characteristic: they are capable of impeccably completing any elegant look without slipping into excess. Although it is a recurring practice for Armani, who had already decided to apply this concept in past seasons, this latest low-profile collection is determined to showcase what is a simple and consequently timeless elegance. Aptly opened by Gina Di Bernardo, the collection is a message of grace and hope, connected to the energy and strength of nature, to the life cycle of the planet to which we belong. Flowers that bloom even in the depths of winter, announcing beauty and regrowth, settle on the garments of this collection, accentuating their airy and fluid forms, the sense of harmonious elegance. The essence of Armani.

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