With his debut collection at Ferragamo, Maximilian Devis amazed the public, starting a journey to redefine the codes of the luxurious Italian Maison. For Autumn Winter 23 he continues his path, this time drawing on the brand’s past, exploring the clothes Salvatore Ferragamo used to make for Hollywood stars. Devis observes their hyper-feminine beauty, interpreted today on the catwalk with an essential modernity that embraces an alien futurism that offsets the volumes and silhouettes of the era: the collection makes the Florentine House’s historical ties with Hollywood relevant again. The young designer observes and analyses the infinite fascination of Sophia Lauren and Marylin Monroe, trying to make it contemporary today. Maximilian Devis demonstrates his skills with a now unmistakable style, producing a range of elegant, classic garments with completely contemporary shapes.
“Ferragamo began its journey by making shoes for the movies of the 1930s, all the way to conquering movie stars of the 1950s. I looked at their glamour, their beauty and their way of dressing, thinking about how to make it modern in the present.”
The designer revisits the characteristics of the era with linear precision, focusing in particular on full skirts made of an optical white nylon, fitted waists and high necklines, adding contemporary elements to the more classic lines through fabric or details borrowed from the world of sport. Red is the iconic shade of the collection, juxtaposed at the beginning with darker tones such as black and grey; several garments are made in light nuances such as white and cream, while towards the end of the fashion show the designer focused on bright colours such as yellow and electric blue. The first look to enter the catwalk shows the clean lines of the brand in a modern and refined form, followed by tight trousers paired with jackets buttoned on the side and patent leather mini-dresses for a hint of the more sensual side of the brand. The dresses follow the shape of the silhouettes with extreme class and elegance, showing a refined modernity. Red colours entire mackintoshes, suits, jumpers and furs; slashes in the fabrics disturb the classic sensibility: suits with clean cuts and leathers that zip open reveal flashes of colour, encapsulating both David’s decisive aesthetic and the disruptive spirit of the 1950s bikers. Wing sleeves and renaissance draping with a refined, romantic character are contrasted with the modern glamour of shimmering lamé mini dresses. What would people of the 1950s think of the future? Devis strives to think of an answer to this question mark that determines the entire collection. High shine and alienated metallic effects is what the audience is excited to see walking the catwalk with a determined step, affirming the complete change of historical feminine glamour into a new era. Maxi bags are the accessories of the coming season, placed side by side with rigid mini-bags with resin handles that faithfully reproduce the necklaces worn by the models. Matt and shiny black leather boots alternate with angular stiletto heels. The collection appears strong, defined and modern: Maximilian Devis’ sentiment in creating it was born from the imagination and reinterpretation of different epochs and cinematographic aesthetics, discovering an absolute contemporaneity of Ferragamo’s new codes.
“It is my vision of what people in the 1950s would think of the future: high gloss and alienated metallic effects.”