MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

After Dark

2023.01.15

Refined comfort, everyday opulence and elegance of the unexpected are the terms that best describe the Fendi FW23 menswear fashion show by Silvia Venturini Fendi.

The models walk along the runway following a giant sphere of a flipper travelling around the space of the show, recalling the golden years of the 80s. Fendi presents itself with a revolutionary classicism and expression of shine and brilliance incorporated in the panorama of sartorial experimentation. The theme of the decadence of the city and the lights that shine at dusk are explored, thanks to trompe d’oeil dresses, asymmetries and volumes accompanied by geometric motifs and movements of fabrics on the body. The distinctive materials of the Maison couldn’t be missed, such as double-face cashmere, worked leathers and jacquards glorified by disco references in colours such as silver, indigo and purple alternating with a more sober palette that includes shades of dove grey, oats, umber mocha, mauve, lavander, dark blue and black.

Fendi FW23.

Wrapping outerwear alternates with sensual knitwear and unstructured shirts, blurring the boundaries between utility and deception. Coats and ponchos in ribbed cashmere closed with O’lock zips, flowing trousers and draped skirts, double-breasted jackets and coats, fringed hems with tramblant metal appliqués that offer purity and rigour. The Fendi Astuccio print is revisited as Fendi Shadow, where the logo is magnified creating a geometric pattern that characterizes mohair scarves, blankets, linings and pinstripe suits. The Fendi man can be found strolling the streets, at home and on dance floors around the world with an eccentric yet still formal and elegant extravagance. The Peekaboo evolves with metal buckles and chains and sprayed sheepskin while the Baguette is revisited in burnished leather and all-over utilitarian pockets. The new Chiodo backpack features ergonomic shoulder straps pivoting on metal levers, an original and futuristic statement of the Fendi Shadow motif in black leather. The footwear is enriched by the FF logo boxed on the heels of Cuban boots and moccasins, while the Fendi Flow sneakers return with details in scuba, mesh or transparent materials. The jewels of the season, signed Delfina Delettrez, once again take up the new Fendi Shadow motif in bracelets, necklaces and square pendants. The intertwined FF motif that adorns earrings and chain necklaces is back. Round double-dial watches are graced with the O’lock.

Fendi FW23.

The Milanese space of the Maison has been transformed into a gigantic roller pinball machine designed by the artist Nico Vascellari with a disco soundtrack created for the occasion by the famous Italian composer and producer Giorgio Moroder, entitled “After Dark”. The track includes the iconic hit “I Feel Love” with Donna Summer and Pete Bellotte from 1977, reconfirming Fendi’s strong closeness to the Italian electronic music scene. Silvia Venturini Fendi keeps the name of her eponymous Maison high in all aspects of the presentation of the new menswear collection, imagining a new playful and extravagant male universe suitable for the frenetic existence of big cities where life whizzes fast and in different directions like the small flipper pinball bouncing from one wall to the other of the dial.

Fendi FW23.

MFW

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