MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

BUCOLIC CITIES

2024.01.14

Text by Chiara Belardi

At the crossroads between city and countryside, freshness and avant-garde ideas, the Fendi Men’s Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection comes to life, conceived by Silvia Venturini Fendi. On the stage, the nobility of exploring vast outdoor spaces weaves the boldness of the city into a masculine wardrobe infused with the decadence of Rome.

It’s the unstable blend of elegance and freedom in an urban world increasingly drawn to nature that permeates the entire Men’s FW24-25 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week. The journey from Roman tailoring to the rest of the world takes unexpected turns, forming a multidimensional path that intertwines history, nature, and futurism. Silvia Venturini Fendi continues to outline the future of menswear with a bold vision, creating a collection that expresses the essence of Fendi through sophisticated details and a unique fusion of thoughts. Fashion becomes an eloquent narrative, skillfully woven between tradition and the courage of innovation. All the looks collaborate for a new concept of urban-bucolic attire, capable of telling a glamorous language, that of the countryside, with the intention of recognizing a clear identity, crafted from pure, sincere, and honest pieces. The collection questions the traditional idea of the male wardrobe, distinguishing itself from the evident desire for lightness and composure, born from the Roman essence that characterizes the designer’s background. Thus, while contemplating the evolving panorama of tailoring, the hybridism of the silhouette, and its multiple meanings, a constant question lingers in the world of menswear, to which Fendi responds in ways that transcend and surprise.

A life immersed in the world of FENDI unfolds between the urban excitement and the tranquility of the countryside, amidst fresh air and even fresher ideas.

The Men FW24-25 collection marries a profound cultural knowledge with the skill of both ancient and new techniques: the collection is enriched with subtle expressions of Europeana, from the soft touch of Casentino wool blankets, to the waxed finish of fabrics suitable for every season, and the smooth hand of loden. The looks gradually embellish with details, becoming increasingly intricate; elegant pleats and waxed fabrics meet the winter palette with vibrant accents. In the constant dialogue between tradition and technology, the silhouettes hybridize bold concepts and respond on the runway to the ongoing question of menswear, transcending expectations and surprising with a harmonious fusion of innovation and deep roots. The duality of urban and bucolic is manifested through the spirit of the Scottish kilt, giving life to generous outerwear and playful silhouettes. Examples include fisherman-style coats, waterproof FF canvas jackets side-by-side, bombers, and cabans with shearling-trimmed profiles and stitches trompe l’oeil. Pleated shorts and leather Wellington boots embrace trekking socks, while plaid skirts blend with reimagined trousers with pleats along the leg, and generous outerwear with raglan shoulders and leather buttons meet shades of British green.

There is, therefore, a sense of duality that permeates the collection, the balance – to be found – between comfort and opulence, nature and city, bourgeoisie and countryside is mocked by garments that take themselves lightly in their playfulness and pragmatism. The intention seems to be precisely to open a passage and expand the vocabulary of the season; an example of this is tailoring, which joins masculine materials, such as the finest kid mohair, applied with a fluid and very feminine sensibility when combined with silk and knitwear. Materials are dense, washed denim, and mohair wool textures are knotted, frayed, and knitted to resemble fringed furs, while pleated leathers are transformed into exceptional coats. The use of color is poetic and soothing. In the winter palette composed of dark brown and granite, burnt earth, charcoal, and forest green, accents of cornflower blue, denim blue, cherry, grass green, canary yellow, and cloud gray illuminate in contrast or tone on tone. In the atmosphere of cozy bucolic refinement, the Fendi accessory collection for Fall/Winter 2024-25 emerges as a tangible tribute to the craftsmanship of Selleria and leather. The runway comes to life with a symphony of curves and contours, presenting extraordinary creations such as the Siesta bag, which magically transforms into a shearling or striped quilted pillow, and the Melon hobo with foldable modularity adorned with FF2 chromatic details.

The use of color is poetic and soothing. In the winter palette composed of dark brown and granite, burnt earth, charcoal, and forest green, accents of cornflower blue, denim blue, cherry, grass green, canary yellow, and cloud gray illuminate in contrast or tone on tone. In the atmosphere of cozy bucolic refinement, the Fendi accessory collection for Fall/Winter 2024-25 emerges as a tangible tribute to the craftsmanship of Selleria and leather. The runway comes to life with a symphony of curves and contours, presenting extraordinary creations such as the Siesta bag, which magically transforms into a shearling or striped quilted pillow, and the Melon hobo with foldable modularity adorned with FF2 chromatic details. The two-tone textured leather beauty items become bold day bags, while the Peekaboo ISeeU Soft, with softened lines, and the padded Baguette Soft Trunk return with a smooth and enveloping form. At the feet, lace-ups elevate with wedge-injected soles, while leather Wellington boots are characterized by Selleria stitches on the ankle, a distinctive detail emphasizing attention to detail. The collaboration with the architectural studio Ma Yansong/MAD designs a futuristic atmosphere for the collection. Under the creative guidance of Silvia Venturini Fendi and Ma Yansong, the Peekaboo ISeeU Soft deconstructs with lacquered aluminum outlines, drawing inspiration from the organic and curvilinear architectural aesthetics of MAD. A slip-on sneaker, low-profile and flat, features an injected organic sole and a two-tone upper with bubble details, offering an ergonomic alternative to the season’s reimagined classics. Deepening the commitment to musical and technological research, Fendi presents the portable speaker FENDI x DEVIALET Mania, worn as a stylish accessory with some runway looks. Designed in collaboration with the French haute technologie engineers from Devialet, this cutting-edge device offers 360° stereo sound, integrating acoustic mapping technology that adapts the sound to the surrounding environment for an impeccable auditory experience. The runway unfolds on a set designed by Italian artist Nico Vascellari, transforming the Fendi venue in Milan into a geometric path, with the audience seated on brushed steel benches adorned with FF monograms. The event is further enriched by an exclusive soundtrack, a unique composition created by Vascellari and renowned DJ and producer Rocco Rampino, adding an innovative sonic element to Fendi’s fusion of fashion, art, and technology for the upcoming season.

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