MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

THE ATELIER CELEBRATION

2023.02.01

The Haute Couture SS23 collection realized by Kim Jones is an ode to the craftsmanship and to the search for precious fabrics, where underwear is transformed in a series of human and accessibile evening dressed. 

The week dedicated to Haute Couture is always divided between Maisons that present dresses resembling works of art, making unique pieces inaccessible to everyday life, and others that, like Fendi, propose for Spring-Summer 23 dresses with a more classic cut, connected to the techniques of craftsmanship and to the classic concept of elegance. In fact, Kim Jones expresses a desire to create a collection that leans on the study of workmanship and fine fabrics, while at the same time responding to the needs of customers, who desire human and accessible couture clothes. The result is a celebration of the ateliers that make the garments, of the intense labor and emotional commitment felt by those who produce them and those who wear them in the future. The collection consists of a wide selection of evening dressed that keep traditions alive by presenting different shapes and a deep study of details in a sophisticated and contemporary version. The flou focuses on the form of the dress, but the idea of the whole is also taken up in a new sense, with a notion of intentional flow and flexibility replacing impenetrability of the whole collection. 

“This season, I wanted to concentrate on the techniques and craft of couture, with the lightness, fluidity and attitude of today. It’s a celebration of the ateliers and the craftspeople who realise these garments, the intense work and emotional commitment to each piece that exists for both maker and wearer.

– Kim Jones, Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear

fendi haute couture ss23.

Kim Jones for the realization of the collection presents two different parts: the first includes long dresses draped and held with large snap-hooks taken directly from the world of climbing and revisited in a refined key: studded with small crystals, however, they keep their original shape that emphasizes their provenance and their choice to veer Haute Couture towards the contemporary. A second part of dresses, on the other hand, is geared toward telling the story of the mutation of lingerie into entire evening proposals, creating a romantic and sensual atmosphere that never meets the vulgar. Kim Jones began the realization precisely by starting with a classic piece that profoundly marked the 90s, also treasuring the history of costume, and also referring to the petticoats of the 900s. The lingerie for the coming season is revisited, re-proposed to the public in an ethereal, almost dreamy version: thin straps, lace works that plays on the see-through effect and deep necklines on the back are the characteristics of the femme fatale designed by Kim Jones. The colors are light and delicate, declined in a hue that makes them cold, giving the models a rigid character, almost making them appear alienated from the earthly world. Lace ruffles, sequins, breast silhouettes reminiscent of bodice silhouettes, and draping make the silhouettes sweet and soft. The romanticism of the dresses is accompanied by accessories that present strong details: the futuristic-looking mini-bags have handles reminiscent of a chain, while the clasps take up the snap hook used on the garments, this time, however, keeping it raw in its original material; the earrings are flashy, covered with crystals, and the long gloves seem to be made entirely of steel, emphasizing the concept of cold and otherworldly garments, echoed also in the heel of the shoes.

“The collection is an inner world made into an external one – both figuratively and literally – with a sense of underwear becoming eveningwear.”

– Kim Jones

A skilled “spezzatura” of done and undone permeates all: an imperfection aspires to join a more human perfection. Kim Jones realizes a clothing that is not just about being looked at, but about being lived in. Drapes and bindings on the body, together with hand ruffling motifs, give a sculptural sense, and the very useful snap-hook are transformed into details of extreme luxury. The designer has made Haute Couture accessible, transforming it into elegant evening gowns that blend organically with contemporary details. The goal is for his clothes to be experienced, and not only looked at. 

fendi haute couture ss23.

MAISON ALAÏA

A STORY BEHIND THE CLOTHES

2023.03.27

WHERE FASHION AND CREATION MEET ART AND BEAUTY

 

Pieter Mulier for Alaïa returns to embody the Maison’s unique history in a personal and intimate artistic vision that is carried away by human emotions and connections.

fall winter 23

CHANEL

2023.03.08

THE CAMELLIA IS MORE THAN A THEME

 

The winter camellia flower runs through the Fall Winter 23 collection seeding little signs of joy and romance. Virginie Viard previews the collection with a short film and photo series inspired by the famous movie Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?”.

MIU MIU

WAYS OF LOOKING

2023.03.08

LOOKING IS A WINDOW TO THINKING 

 

Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu presents the co-ed Fall Winter 23 collection featuring familiar garments that encapsulate gestures and movements around the figure.

LOUIS VUITTON

WHAT IS FRENCH STYLE

2023.03.07

A REFINED AND PARADOXICAL ENIGMA

 

An open book that chronicles Nicholas Ghesquière’s Fall Winter 23 collection at Louis Vuitton and asks the characteristics of French style. A question that remains unanswered, an evolving fashion with infinite fascination.

collection

HERMÈS

2023.03.06

INCANDESCENCE AND SENSUALITY 

 

Hermès Fall Winter 23 collection brings the same features and colors of women’s different hair styles to the runways as a symbol of elegance and femininity. Like the manes, the lines of the garments follow the silhouette and take shape as they walk.