“It all started with Delfina. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists Fendi, which is what I love.”
Kim Jones for the Fall Winter 23 collection is directly inspired by the female figures of the Fendi House, getting carried away by Delfina‘s looks in particular. One of his first days in the offices of the Roman Maison sees her enter dressed in brown and blue, being surprised by the way she mixes elements from the brand’s archives with an innate sense of class and elegance. Her personal expression is the basis and the beginning of the Creative Director’s research for next season’s collection: garments made to be worn every day that explore and elevate deconstruction, mix gender archetypes, and feed the disorder of extreme feminine sophistication. The fresh, youthful world of Delfina meets the Fendi universe, coming across the graphic motifs of Fall Winter 1996 and the sketches of Karl Lagerfeld, revisiting some of the details that have left their mark on the history of the Maison. The collection opens with pale colors, including gray, cream, and beige, often used in colorblock looks, giving a serious, coherent character to the entire défilé: elements of the elegant men’s clothing become an integral part of women’s garments with the intention of earning their place in the everyday wardrobe. A classic light blue shirt is paired with gray pants borrowed from a men’s suit, to which Kim Jones often superimposes a pleated mini-skirt or long panels that create delicate but purposeful movements.
Long coats that brush against the floor lengthen the figure and hint at cardigans and fitted turtleneck sweaters or vests reminiscent of those of uniforms. Harking back to Fendi’s feminine sophistication, lace tops are worn over shirts, leather sheath dresses lend a touch of sensuality, and sequins cover the inside of entire raincoats. Knitwear appears cleanly cut or delicately distorted and ribbed knits left unbuttoned or worn asymmetrical. The conclusion of the show veers toward bright colors: fuchsia and red suddenly cover long dresses, and chiffon drapes wrapped over the shoulders create sinuous movement. With the introduction of a new bag, the Fendi Multi, Silvia Venturini Fendi pays homage to that multi-purpose sensibility so innate to the Maison, through a shape that is designed to be two things in one, transforming from one silhouette to another with a simple gesture. Maxi monogram bags and mini Baguette are paired with tall lace-up and combat boots. Kim Jones creates a world that sits perfectly in the middle between the Fendi archives and Delfina’s contemporary, youthful style that, while maintaining an ultra-feminine image, is able to mix elements of a man’s wardrobe: and like the collection designed by Jones, feels free to express herself through the garments.
“It’s deconstructed, but luxurious.
There’s a little nod to punk, and my admiration for DIY, but moved on towards something chic.”