MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Dsquared2
Temptation

2023.01.14

Dsquared2’s Autumn Winter 2023 fashion show looks to the past to create the future, taking inspiration from the first women’s fashion show twenty years ago. Mixing styles and creating original layering, the brand makes the rebellious teenager the star of the catwalk.

It’s been two decades since Dsquared2’s first women fashion show, called Star 24/7, and for the Autumn Winter 2023 collection, the brand brings that sexy, cheeky character back to the catwalk in a whole new form. The undisputed protagonists for next winter are the teenagers: the geek, the jock, the goth, the emo and the femme are all stereotypes that are broken down and reassembled with contemporary conviction, taking the freedom to be whoever you want. The two designers in fact wanted to take the past as inspiration to design the future, celebrating all the themes that have been fundamental to the brand’s path: the fashion show is an ode to feeling good about yourself and being comfortable in the clothes you wear, without feeling prejudiced. The models on the catwalk look like they have just came out of their room after a crazy night wearing scattered garments that create an original and provocative look. The overlaps of strongly contrasting pieces, such as satin and lace tank tops juxtaposed with biker-jackets or jumpers combined with crotch-hugging shorts, characterise the whole fashion show, transferring the love for the young rebel to the audience.

Dsquared2 FW23.

“We wanted to celebrate all the themes that have become our flagships: being happy with yourself, being happy as an individual and feeling comfortable in your own skin.”

– Dean e Dan Caten

Denim remains as ever a fundamental element for the brand, which ihas been revisited for the occasion in several versions. For next season, the iconic jeans will be strictly low-waisted, covered in glitter or quilted with images like stars and will often allow a glimpse of underwear, once again transporting us to the aesthetics of the 2000s. The exploration of teenage characters gives way to the full Dsquared2 energy that mixes cowboy elements with chunky knitwear and lace lingerie tank tops unleashing the brand’s imagination and unmistakable DNA. Leather jackets with long fringes are mixed with sleeveless and tight-fitting jersey tops with flashy words like “demon” and worn with embroidered western boots. For the new collection, the brand has managed to mix different elements and styles to create looks that may even seem exaggerated. Models enter the catwalk with maxi lengths and contrasting mini details, while chaps, made of both leather and shearling, in some cases overlap with denim while in others leave little to the imagination.

Dsquared2 FW23.

“’Open-minded! Irony! Courage! No prejudice!”

– Dean e Dan Caten

Accessories perfectly reflect Dsquared2’s design and for this défilé more than ever are fundamental to complete the looks. The belt with the big metal buckle becomes a real must-have this season: launched 25 years ago, this year it is juxtaposed with denim, shorts and chinos. The same, with western or gothic lettering, appears on the upper part of the design of the portable belt bag designed for both men and women, while a heart-shaped thermal plastic bag comes in pop colours such as yellow and pink. The boots are in western or biker style and for the coming season are worn with white terry socks with red stripes. The brand has given a new shape to the past by creating an almost excessive but balanced mix of styles. Dsquared2’s young rebel will be the undisputed star of next season.

Dsquared2 FW23.
THE GIVENCHY CODE

2024.03.01

From tailored suits to evening gowns, each piece is enriched with details that evoke the heritage of the Maison. A cinematic chromatic symphony, ranging from black to navy blue, lends the collection the typical Givenchy boldness, while graphic necklines and sartorial formality sculpt a distinctive silhouette.

POWER IS OUTSPOKEN

2024.02.28

An elegant sense of power pervades the latest Saint Laurent runway. There’s a duality that merges elegance and provocation, a carnal convergence between garment and body. Revisiting Yves’s codes, blouses, shirts, ultra-tight skirts, and silk dresses culminate in a powerful aesthetic imagery.

FW24

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

FALL/WINTER 24

Impalpable Visions

2024.02.26

Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

Jil Sander

Minimal frills, maximum impact

2024.02.25

The FW24 collection by Jil Sander is abundant in rounded silhouettes and soft lines, yet with character. The balance between form and comfort fills the enveloping coats and sartorial details: each piece reflects a constant pursuit of effortless sophistication.