MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

SLEEK

2024.01.14

Text by Chiara Belardi

Dolce&Gabbana Men’s FW 24-25 collection narrates the aesthetic of contemporary high-quality Italian menswear. An elegance that transcends formal boundaries becomes a symbol of sartorial purity.

The art of Handmade presented by Dolce&Gabbana in the Men’s Fall-Winter 24-25 collection tells, through its clean lines and refined minimalism, a design that is truly necessary today. Sleek is indeed the name of the creative duo’s sartorial ensemble: a story of timeless elegance that embodies the authentic Italian savoir-faire, always the beating heart of the brand. The collection’s common thread is sobriety, with a predominantly black color palette embellished with touches of white, gray, and camel. Built around tailoring, the discourse goes beyond fleeting fashion trends, embracing the timeless chicness that continues to make Dolce&Gabbana famous worldwide. The Sleek collection is not just an aesthetic presentation but a celebration of Dolce&Gabbana’s Italian DNA. Attention to detail, love for craftsmanship, and sartorial mastery are the pillars on which each garment is built. Choosing black as the predominant color seems to emphasize homage to the Italian tradition, a symbol of timeless elegance.

“Absolute black is the symbol of our idea of purity and elegance: the fabrics chosen for our creations are black. In a black dress, everything is pure and essential. Its elegance allows every woman to assert her personality, which is as unique as each of our sartorial creations.”

– Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the creative minds behind this significant work around the idea of tailoring, embody the perfect fusion of deep roots and an innovative vision: the Sleek collection is a reflection of change, a return to authentic values through the sublimation of quality in every facet. Fashion, accustomed to a very rapid pace, is urged by Dolce&Gabbana to assert, on the contrary, a tailoring without any time; thus inventing a declaration of love for craftsmanship. The collection stands as a beacon in the storm of trends, a celebration of fashion as a form of artistic language a priori, and a cry to the eternity of beauty. The garments are defined by delicate and precise cuts and proportions. Jackets and coats, the true focus of the collection, embody effortless elegance with clean lines and impeccable silhouettes. Each piece is an authentic quest for the construction of a work of art, a testament to the Italian craftsmanship passed down through generations. From the first look, Dolce & Gabbana’s statement becomes evident, an unprecedented lesson that emphasizes the need for contemporary male clothing capable of adapting to new meanings.

Flowers also become an attitude: unexpected embroideries blooming on cotton-rich drills, transparent or solid silk, on jacket lapels, or at the center of a shirt collar simulate a very elegant bow tie. And always on the lapels, the pins stand out, accessories with a unique but current touch. Silhouettes are studied starting from the basic concept of a suit to reinvent the male wardrobe, integrating feminine elements. In this reinterpretation, intimate wear becomes a focal point, accentuating the waist and introducing a new dimension of sensuality. Balanced shapes, sober proportions, and a clean atmosphere characterize an aura dominated by natural sophistication.

“We tell an intergenerational fashion. Today, everything is mixed. We fix images with black and white as if they were very precise portraits. It is a balance between past and contemporary: being in fashion and out of fashion.”

– Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana

DIOR

LIVE STREAMING

2024.06.24

Follow the live stream of the #DiorHauteCoutureFW24 show.

Hermès brings lightness

2024.06.24

Inside the Palais d’Iéna, an Art Deco jewel designed by architect Auguste Perret for the 1937 Universal Exhibition, the Hermès boys celebrate the beginning of summer with nubuck calfskin shirts and cotton piqué tank tops.

DIOR'S ARCHIVAL RENAISSANCE

2024.06.22

Kim Jones’s new collection is a captivating ode to savoir-faire. Rounded volumes, sculptural knitwear, and playful accessories redefine menswear.

FASHION

A LIFE IN FASHION

2024.06.21

The new exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London explores forty years of fashion and activism.

BLOWING IN THE WIND

2024.06.21

The Homme Plissé Issey Miyake show titled Up, Up, and Away draws inspiration from the wind and aims for the perfect synthesis by creating garments and coats with free and airy silhouettes.