MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

A CONTEMPORARY RITUAL

2023.07.05

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

The Dior Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023-2024 collection emphasizes the archetypal sartorial elements of the Maison, revisited according to a pristine minimalism that harks back to classical architecture and a pure delicacy that is echoed in the details. 

The idea brought to the stage for this new Haute Couture collection gives a form and a temporality of its own to the narrative, in which history and excellence merge with modern, visionary aspects and values. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s present for Dior emphasizes the creation of tailoring in a visually interesting and engaging atmosphere, at times mythological and celestial. The main inspiration draws on the powerful simplicity of the Greco-Roman world, at the level of costume, history, society and architecture, bringing to the stage a vision of classicism that turns out to be extremely and eternally relevant. A composure that reveals and at the same time conceals, a triumph of meticulous material work, a woman who defines herself as sophisticated and refined.

“The storytelling is a political act, and simplicity is the most complex of creations.”

– Maria Grazia Chiuri

Dior dress is cleverly revisited: jackets are paired with skirts and dresses, leaving aside pure aesthetic formalism to make room for true modernity. The archetypes of the maison’s heritage are the tunic, peplum, cape, and stole. Silhouettes are vertical and low shoes seem to make the models float in a dreamy-looking défilé. The chosen color palette takes up shades of white, beige, silver and pale gold. Games of transparencies, volumes and lines give great movement and dynamism to the collection, if the former reveal the sensual aspect of the woman, the seemingly more rigid structures describe her characteristics of strength, confidence and power. The materials chosen are unique and priceless, made even more interesting and precious by lace, embroidery and beading of all kinds, inlays and jewel applications. The models compose a hieratic sequence, as if impersonating imposing deities who rule the whole world.

Maria Grazia Chiuri perpetuates the cult of the goddess in each proposal and reinterprets the founding emblems of antiquity, myth and history. The entire fashion show becomes a contemporary ritual, illustrating the strength and fragility of femininity. Travels around the world for the latest Dior collections have continued to enrich the cultural background of the creative director, who this time decides to speak directly from Paris to all women. Taking up the past, she guides us here toward a vision of a sensitive and essential future.

LIVE STREAMING

DIOR

2024.04.15

Tune in for the unveiling of Dior Fall 2024 by Maria Grazia Chiuri live from New York, and find the collection in boutiques and online from April 25th.

METROPOLITAN NOCTURNES

2024.04.15

Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.