MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

MODERN BRAVERY

2023.03.01

The Dior Fall Winter 23 collection celebrates three strong and courageous personalities, symbols of freedom from the 1950s, transferring their rebellious character mixed with the romantic essence proper to the French Maison into the garments.

Maria Grazia Chiuri for the Dior Fall Winter 2023 collection describes a woman with the strength and determination of post-war icons, but characterized by a contemporary bon ton style: the designer uses each season as an opportunity to explore the essence and the role of clothing in relation with the body and the evolution of fashion. Starting with a reinterpretation of the 1950s, the history of the French Maison is once again celebrated on the runway, deepening into three extraordinary personalities who were significant to Christian Dior, his sister Catherine, Juliette Gréco and Édith Piaf. Three women who shared a strong spirit of independence that guided their clothes throughout their lives: each of them was able to subvert the female stereotype that was part of the rigid mentality of the post-war period. Particularly with Miss Dior, the memory of her brother, who always recognized her as an emblem of strength and freedom, emerges. Chiuri admires her determination and the way she made the Resistance her mission, taking her life as a fighter as the entire inspiration for the collection and transforming it into garments that are strong and fragile at the same time.

“I think of three women who played a leading role in Mr. Dior’s life and in French culture:

Catherine Dior, Juliette Gréco and Édith Piaf.”

– Maria Grazia Chiuri

DIOR FW23.
dior fw23.

Miss Dior’s flowers return to the runway reinterpreted on crumpled and rebellious cloths thanks to the metallic threads woven into them. The fabric dances and creates movements such that it appear alive, like Catherine’s memory, which throughout the show remains imprint in the audience’s imaginary. The garments revisit the Maison’s archive using primary colors: ruby, emerald, topaz yellow, and blue color midi dresses, leather trench coats, and padded and quilted jackets. The looks express a sophisticated French essence, emphasized in the checked sets, cinched waists, and wide corolla skirts. Embroideries create shades of light that make the silhouette elegant and sinuous, creating a meeting point between new technologies and the majesty of couture. White shirts, as the first look suggests, are worn slightly unbuttoned or with a tie, paired with a dark pencil skirt and a pair of leather gloves, outlining a classy figure with clean lines. Maria Grazia Chiuri works on the collection by making everything lighter, as the Italian DNA suggests her: the keen eye for elegance has over the years approached Dior’s typically French character, creating a conversation between the two. The words of Édith Piaf’s iconic song, which conclude the show, can be found embroidered on T-shirts that scream “Je ne reggete rien”, emphasizing the rebellious character “of the most pop image of the French culture.” Those women, with no regrets, are the example for those the designer addresses today, incorporating strong elements such as leather jacket, use of animalier pattern and combat boots within the looks. Midi lengths leave light stockings uncovered and pumps with platforms and ankle straps, while the Caro bag, from the abbreviation of Catherine’s name used as a code during the Resistance years, returns to the runway again this season. The memory of three such strong and courageous women seems to walk alongside the models, surrounded by the majestic installations entitled Valkyrie Miss Dior and created by the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. Dior’s collection for the coming season is romantic, mixed with a strong attitude to encourage and uplift the spirit of women today. The clean, understated looks celebrate the kaleidoscopic image of a femininity designed by powerful icons, suggesting emotional paths to new generations, shaping garments according to our future.

“It was also a way to think about myself. Because in my house, my mother and grandmother were independent women.”

– Maria Grazia Chiuri

dior fw23.

LIVE STREAMING

DIOR

2024.04.15

Tune in for the unveiling of Dior Fall 2024 by Maria Grazia Chiuri live from New York, and find the collection in boutiques and online from April 25th.

METROPOLITAN NOCTURNES

2024.04.15

Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.