MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

THE CALIFORNIAN DREAM

2023.05.10

Text by Chiara Cappelli

CHANEL CRUISE 2023 / 2024

 

Chanel brings Los Angeles to the runway through a daydream: an unexplored world of French elegance, Hollywood glamour and sporty rhythm.

As the billboards scattered around Los Angeles suggested as a preview of the fashion show, the Cruise 2023 was one and true “One Night Only”. In addition to traveling to California to present the collection, the French Maison transported the audience inside a dream made of sequins, bright colors and pure glamour. The star of the film anticipating the big event is actress and model Alma Jodorowsky, engaged throughout the video in an aerobic gymnastics session, immediately recalling the famous Jane Fonda videos of the 1980s. The short film is a succession of frames showing scenery and classic California landscapes, creating an atmosphere that is both sporty and classy. The first pieces of the collection are unveiled to the rhythm of gymnastic steps: knit tops and mini shorts in pastel shades, stars applied to matching sets, and tall leg warmers worn with sneakers and oversized sunglasses. Previews reveal the collection’s fun and glittery vibe and a strong return to Hollywood glamour, taking inspiration directly from big movie stars. Virginie Viard feels the need to breathe fresh air, to let go and launch herself with open arms towards a fantastic journey.

“The idea is to offer a breath of fresh air, a voyage, a light-hearted and happy fantasy.”

– Virginie Viard

CHANEL CRUISE 23/24.

The first looks confirm the return of the Eighties on the runway: crop tops and mini shorts alternate with skimpy bodysuits with hip openings and silver star appliqués, worn with black leg warmers and classic terrycloth cuffs on the arm. There is a sporty air in perfect harmony with Chanel’s French elegance: the Creative Director creates an entirely new, multicolored, vibrant world where the glamour of the 1920s and 1930s meets the rhythm of the 1970s and 1980s. Among the Maison’s emblematic colors, white, black and pink, stand out bright colors that infuse vitality and joy in the audience. Fuchsia, purple and light blue make their way among gold tops and skirts studded with glitter; every detail of the garments recalls the California sun and life. Denim shorts paired with striped T-shirts, long dresses and low-waisted skirts follow soft pants with elastic waists, once again recalling sportswear. The collection is inspired by the youthful, carefree style that colors Los Angeles, also referencing skateboard culture with a sporty loose-fitting shorts paired with an oversized T-shirt; and a real skateboard as an accessory. Alongside the collection’s new elements, more classic ones make a return to the runway, offering the audience a new way of combining tweed: entire outfits feature fun prints, including palm trees and colorful rollers; skirts are paired with sunset-hued cardigans and tights covered in stars and CC logos.

CHANEL CRUISE 23/24.

“Between a tribute to the glamour of great film stars and evoking the world of fun to be had with sports, between the dream on one hand and what you want to wear on the other, it’s all a question of balance.” 

– Virginie Viard

 The journey ends with an unrestrained use of accessories that make the looks even richer and more energetic. Necklaces, ever-present in the Chanel wardrobe, are one layered on top of the other, creating endless layers of pearls and gold chains, worn tighter hugging the neck or keeping them soft, waist-length. Among the bags we recognize the classic models that have made Chanel’s history, in different sizes, and some more original ones, such as the car-shaped mini bag.

 

The audience during the show in the Paramount studios, experiences the atmosphere of Los Angeles, the vitality and energy running through the city streets. Virginie Viard wants to pay homage to cinema and its big stars and at the same time to sports and gymnastics. It is a matter of harmony: the French Maison has found a perfect balance by showing classic elements combined with new details. A fun collection, full of joy and a clear invitation to step into the spotlight and never leave the dance floor.

chanel 23/24.
THE GIVENCHY CODE

2024.03.01

From tailored suits to evening gowns, each piece is enriched with details that evoke the heritage of the Maison. A cinematic chromatic symphony, ranging from black to navy blue, lends the collection the typical Givenchy boldness, while graphic necklines and sartorial formality sculpt a distinctive silhouette.

POWER IS OUTSPOKEN

2024.02.28

An elegant sense of power pervades the latest Saint Laurent runway. There’s a duality that merges elegance and provocation, a carnal convergence between garment and body. Revisiting Yves’s codes, blouses, shirts, ultra-tight skirts, and silk dresses culminate in a powerful aesthetic imagery.

FW24

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

FALL/WINTER 24

Impalpable Visions

2024.02.26

Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

Jil Sander

Minimal frills, maximum impact

2024.02.25

The FW24 collection by Jil Sander is abundant in rounded silhouettes and soft lines, yet with character. The balance between form and comfort fills the enveloping coats and sartorial details: each piece reflects a constant pursuit of effortless sophistication.