MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

BRITISH OUTDOORS

2023.09.19

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

A classic tale treated with irreverence by the creative inspiration of Daniel Lee, Burberry Summer 24 collection tells all the elements of the brand’s tradition through a fresh, modern lens.

The element of the everyday is unleashed within the runway show presented at London Fashion Week. This is the second collection in which we see the work of creative director Daniel Lee, who this time chooses a relaxed and real atmosphere to tell his vision through the details of essential wearability. Indeed, it is clarity and cleanliness that characterize the stylistic choices presented in an irreverent key, but well rooted in the tradition of a brand that has characterized and continues to characterize the history of British wear. The clothes are modern, chic and simple, but at the same time rich in research aimed at redefining a strong attitude, which persists throughout the collection. The codes brought to the stage by the designer, and that characterize his recognizable creative flair, are an intelligent and pervasive revisitation of the history of a great brand, a sober and sophisticated vision of what heritage lets emerge.

“We’re in a kind of frame of mind of not messing around with the trench. To keep it precious and beautiful, and not to conceptualize. The idea of neatness and sharpness.”

– Daniel Lee

The proposals characterize a new essential wardrobe designed for the British outdoors. The key element around which the entire creative direction is developed is the quintessential British garment, and the distinctive element of the brand itself: the trench coat. The first look revisits a bold reinterpretation of it, in black, with a raised collar and belt worn low on the hip, the silhouette immediately appears fresher and more relaxed than the classic world everyone is used to associating with this element. The lines of all the releases are slim but strong, well-structured thanks to asymmetrical details and squared shoulders, the looks are clean and minimal, even the hidden buttons contribute to the idea of eliminating everything superfluous, and aspiring to the essentials. Prints and patterns once again recall the heritage of the fashion house, the check is re-proposed in different sizes on exposed linings, shirts, pants and skirts; floral prints and references to the world of horse racing appear in contrast with hooks and chains in different colors and workmanship. 

The work done on color is the second real protagonist of the season, with the now recognizable and characteristic bright blue, also known as Knight Blue, contrasts and visionary combinations are created, there are unquestionably shades of beige and gray, but also lots of green and red. The proposals are unique, veering from more sartorial inspirations to feminine and sensual aspects. Accessories are incredibly chic, bags are transformed for day and evening, from oversize with large shoulder straps and metal buckles to small jeweled clutches embellished with shimmering details and silver chains. Together they parade fun shoes, in shapes and colors, there are heeled loafers, shiny leather flip-flops and sandals with ribbons that wrap around the ankles. The shoe dialogues throughout the collection with the vibrancy of colors presented, and cleverly downplays the goth glam chosen for the make-up: natural base and dark lipstick, of the same shade of green that envelops the scene.

“Because it’s definitely about taking wardrobe codes, subverting them, and making them feel more London.”

– Daniel Lee

The entire collection thus appears as a far more grounded point of view, the result of precise and careful study and research; the apparent ease stems from the universal and understandably real appeal that designer Daniel Lee has decided to tell. Every aspect is decided to approach the everyday, the wardrobe of a woman who is sincere, simple but also unique. The inspiration then impeccably combines seemingly different worlds, the punk and the street, the ordinary and the extraordinary, the high and the low, the elegant and the urban. All designed to be told within a setting that represents the United Kingdom: Kennington Park becomes the protagonist by hosting a large tent with a check print on the green tone also reproposed on the runway. Lee gives a collection for the spectator, who strolls through the streets of the park with pride and modernity wearing a trench coat with a collar turned up and allowing a glimpse of the check lining inside.

“I thought it’s good to take people to places they don’t necessarily go, outside the obvious tourist places. Because London is ultimately made up of neighborhoods.”

– Daniel Lee

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