Earlier in February, Burberry posted some campaign images that reveal the logo change with the entry of Daniel Lee as Creative Director and the colors of the collection, further increasing curiosity for the most expected show of London Fashion Week. Lee in his last experience was able to give new life to a brand with a great Heritage, by adapting the archive to the present day. For the British fashion house’s Fall Winter 23 collection, too, the young Creative Director does not disappoint, bringing back some of the brand’s classic elements, giving them a strong, lively and in some cases even fun character. The British essence that everyone knows is back walking decisively among the audience, which waits for the start of the fashion show sitting on warm Burberry blankets.
“I thought that was funny. You have to have a bit of humor. It’s change for me, change for the brand, and change for the positive thing.”
The mood is that of a cold and wet English rainy day, and indeed the show is opened by a long oversized greenish trench coat with a faux fur collar in the same color. Looking at the looks that immediately follow, the audience catches the strong return of the use of Burberry’s classic pattern, the tartan check, presented through fitted tops, long skirts, soft pants and wool duffle coats in bright tones taken up throughout the show. Yellow, forest green, purple, electric blue, sand and bordeaux are mixed together creating balanced and elegant combinations. The evolution of the Burberry Equestri Knight Design marks a complete return toward the elements that have always characterized the brand and emphasized its singular character. It is precisely with the new logo, reflecting that of 1909, that Daniel Lee demonstrates his ability to reshape the past: the image, which faithfully evokes the Maison’s archives, is adapted to the present day by making it the centerpiece of the clothes in the new collection. “Roses aren’t always red” is the graphic printed on a white, long-sleeved T-shirt that anticipates one of the Maison’s innovations. The roses create patterns in tones of yellow and purple that cover entire looks, mingling on leather-edged coats and dresses that wrap around the body, creating delicate movement. The collection also explores the world of functionality, Daniel Lee in fact says he has played with this idea, focusing much more on youthful, easy-to-wear garments, even taking elements from the working world: men’s plaid pants with horizontal zippered pockets recall the shape of hiking equipment, while the boots appear to be those used for climbing. The Creative Director with his first collection for Burberry also leaves space for fun, making dresses with multicolored tiny feathers, exaggerated faux fur headdresses and a cute hat that mimics a duck. Lee offers a series of leather evening purses, maxi bags equipped with thick fur tails and hot water boules used as accessories, also given to the audience to warm up during the show. Keeping true to the cold and rainy atmosphere, the shoes presented range from rain boots, to stilettos covered in faux fur, and fur-trimmed sneakers.
Burberry’s historical connection with outdoor exploration is reinforced by the show space, designed by Lee in the Kennington Park, in London. Inspired by Burberry tents from the late 19th and early 20th century, the intimate interior evokes a cosiness that provides warmth and protection from the elements. The Daniel Lee debut at Burberry is a full return to the English Maison archive, identifying the elements and the pieces witch have had more success over the years, adapting them to our days with a present character. The opening of the show with the two classic trench are the proof and they demonstrate how the new Creative Director knows to honor the brand, creating to revisited garments able to maintain high the elegance, the class and the inconfondibile style.