MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

BALENCIAGA SS22

2021.06.11

Clones SS22 Collection
by MADDALENA IODICE

What’s real and what’s fake? The Hacker Project behind Demna Gvasalia and Alessandro Michele.

Technology creates alternate realities and identities, a world of digital clones.
Balenciaga’s Spring 22 presentation takes into account our shifting senses of reality through the lens of technology. We see our world through a filter—perfected, polished, conformed, photoshopped. We no longer decipher between fake and deepfake.
Digital clones, photogrammetry-captured, CG-scanned face, 3D modeling: fashion vocabulary has changed. And this is exactly what Demna Gvsalia showed on his white runway where every look in the Spring 22 collection is seen on Eliza Douglas, an artist who has either opened or closed every show and appeared in most campaigns for the past several years. The models marched down a minimalist runway to a sci-fi-inspired soundtrack composed by BFRND and an AI voiceover reciting the lyrics of “La Vie En Rose.”

While experimenting with the power and limits of technology, the show also poses a crucial question on the ideas of authenticity, counterfeiting, and appropriation within the fashion industry, which takes shape in The Hacker Project. The venture presents pieces that merge Gucci and Balenciaga House codes: conceptual interpretations of Gucci’s recognizable signatures as Balenciaga products. Overall, tailoring is deconstructed and engineered to sit off the body in various silhouettes. Trenches, coat dresses, and bombers are mostly reversible, giving the same garment two aesthetic functions.

Chanel Overture

2024.06.26

Presented in Paris, the Haute Couture FW 2024/25 fashion show pays homage to the Opéra Garnier. The collection, sophisticated and theatrical, plays with opulent materials such as feathers, velvet, and taffeta, modernizing a scenic tradition.

HAUTE COUTURE

Dior's Olympian Couture

2024.06.25

Among the spaces of the Musée Rodin in Paris, the audience witnesses a parade of peplos and drapery in the name of Dior. A reference not only visual but also conceptual to classical statuary.

DIOR

LIVE STREAMING

2024.06.24

Follow the live stream of the #DiorHauteCoutureFW24 show.

SS25

Hermès brings lightness

2024.06.24

Inside the Palais d’Iéna, an Art Deco jewel designed by architect Auguste Perret for the 1937 Universal Exhibition, the Hermès boys celebrate the beginning of summer with nubuck calfskin shirts and cotton piqué tank tops.

COLLECTION

ARCHIVAL RENAISSANCE

2024.06.22

Kim Jones’s new collection is a captivating ode to savoir-faire. Rounded volumes, sculptural knitwear, and playful accessories redefine menswear.