MANIFESTO

#64

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

UNBROKEN INSTINCTS

2025.01.20

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

The expression of instinct, free from the constraints of reason is expressed by enveloping and essential layers, immediate and natural gestures that distinguish the Prada Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection.

From the Latin instinctus, strictly speaking, impulse, an innate tendency that provokes in animals and humans behaviors that consist of characteristic, fixed and immediate reactions to certain situations; in humans, any natural propensity that, even in contrast to reason, drives the individual to perform acts or follow behaviours proper to the entire human species.

 

It is around this concept that Prada Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons revolves. A journey into the inner struggle between instinct and elaboration, between action and reflection. The exploration of what can be a direct exaltation of creativity, free and sincere, but at the same time precisely because it is so pure, vulnerable and on the edge of danger. The narrative takes place without any kind of limitation or wavering of consciousness, rather it is depicted as an uncontrollable flow of actions, thoughts, words. Everything is superimposed and mixed, first in a logical and mental sense, and then also in a material sense, with daring juxtapositions of garments, rough cuts in contrast to soft and youthful lines, fabrics seemingly so very different that they merge.

Leather and fur are the full representation of all those visceral impulses intrinsic to human nature. The primitive urges to wear pieces of raw fur on one’s shoulders, or to protect oneself with voluminous padded down jackets; the pajamas and knitwear, as well as the patterns of daring camperos throughout the défilé, tell the hint of romance that helps to amalgamate the narrative. It is not a sweet and warm appearance, but a movement aimed at passion and strong, true, spontaneous emotion. The tailored wool coats bring out the naturalness of immediate gestures, as do the almost meaningless amulets used as adornment, which protect and seemingly make one feel better. Technical bomber jackets and modern-cut shirts send the mind back to that disco club atmosphere typical of the rave and independent music scene. The combinations are completely unexpected, but seductive and intriguing. The body follows free instincts, seeking a need for security and intimacy at the same time.

The cinematic references, amidst variations in lighting and atmosphere, evoke an intimate and confidential dimension of a cold, industrial structure made of metal tubes placed on several levels that AMO places inside the Prada Foundation Depot. Here, once again, it is contrast that dominates, the masculine and rational structure comes into sharp difference with the tactile upholstery resting on the ground, created by Catherine Martin, which tells and enriches the narrative of the continuous juxtaposition of elements. The contrast appears unintentional, although for Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons nothing is left to chance. Everything is tailored to tell a genuine, fresh, young and universal masculine vision. Everything is designed to become an essential tool of creativity. Instinctive reactions. Automatic responses. Primitive drives. Unaltered instincts.

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Hermès Men

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The anatomy of an allure

 

The Hermès Men’s Winter 25 collection tells the spirit of the times through decisive glimpses of winter. Each garment expresses its essence through dynamic and architectural lines.

DIOR MEN

NOTIONS OF EVOLUTION

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ISSEY MIYAKE

FLY WITH IM MEN

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Movement. Versatility. Transformation.

 

The primitive gesture of fabric’s function to protect the body narrates the Issey Miyake Men collection curated by MDS, Miyake Design Studio.

LOUIS VUITTON

REMEMBER THE FUTURE

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The Louis Vuitton Men’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection is an aesthetic combination aimed at the future, a true artistic manifestation of friendship.