The short. The season’s spring summer 2025 collections showcase mini silhouettes, lengths get shorter, cuts get sharper. It is a more direct and immediate way to communicate a trend, the desire to make one’s voice heard, to be recognisable, and to play fresh and modern with timeless trends. Chanel’s tweed look is a story of freedom and travel. Lightness and concreteness are found in an unparalleled feminine harmony, the colours are bright, and the material contrasts irreverent. The ethereal is represented by the light chiffon adorning the lapels and the tie-like insert. In the Hermès collection, on the side, tactile and sensory characters take center stage; leather is smooth and soft, enveloping, light and opaque are contrasted by the layers of clothing that nonetheless reveal the female body.
For Chloé, femininity is at the center, with bohemian touches and hyper sensual materials, lengths seem to disappear, to give voice to each woman’s body. The shapes of layered dresses, balloon skirts and babydolls are almost imperceptible. While for Louis Vuitton, the character of the ultra short has a vein of adventure, of travel, of research. The wandering spirit becomes minute, accessory details accentuate mini skirts and super short dresses.
For Miu Miu, the new season is an intimate starting point where past and future merge. The lines are essential, small, narrow, representing the spontaneous gestures of an authentically homely sincerity. Dresses folded over the body and cotton mini suits are reduced to a minimum. Vanity is confused with deception, the desire to show one’s body, without any fear. The role of the individual and his freedom lies at the center.
Gucci reduces everything, the shapes, the materials, the contrasts, and the colours. Everything becomes extremely feminine and essential. Like the lace suit worn here. Codes are subverted and become tools of provocation. Refinement lies in the short but rigorous cuts. Desirability. Sensuality. Romance. Contradiction. The liberation of looseness. The memory of distant moments. The duality of human nature is rediscovered.
Alongside Valentino reminds us of the romantic. A search between archives and sensations, where dream and reality meet. The limit of existence lies precisely in our will to be. There are paisleys and flowers, polka dots, layered ruffles and embellishments of all kinds, which seem to want to adorn to all the sincerity shown by bodies. Even in the more casual world the lengths are shortened, of skirts as well as tops, here the leather suit becomes cropped, it is reduced to the bone, it is rejuvenated, it is enhanced in all its essence.
