At the core of the collection lies a vision where aesthetics become language, and the exercise of style is the act through which the full power of the collection is expressed. We live in a time where dialogue seems to be losing significance, so Vaccarello proposes fashion as a space for connection—where stylistic choices become acts of resistance and unity. The protagonist of the Saint Laurent universe is a cinematic figure: a woman who is both classic and enigmatic. She moves through contrasting worlds, embodying a mysterious, self-assured femininity that, in the end, reveals a romantic side as well.
The collection unfolds gradually, as if divided into chapters, each representing a different facet of the Saint Laurent woman. The show moves between moments of hardness and intervals of fragility, underscored by a soundscape that marks each transition. It opens with sharply tailored leather jackets, strict pencil skirts, and biker jackets that evoke an intriguing nocturnal atmosphere. This initial toughness then gives way to lighter gestures: sheer nylon trench coats, fluidly draped safari dresses, and cotton poplin shirts adorned with low bows. The play between opacity and transparency sets the stage for what comes next.
Eveningwear introduces a heightened sense of drama. Dresses inspired by the Belle Époque feature puffed sleeves and gathered volumes; here, Vaccarello gives way to an excessive romanticism, balanced by a restrained and contemporary choice of fabrics and cuts. The collection’s color palette—dominated by black, white, and softened neutral tones—reinforces the precision of the aesthetic, broken only by gleaming metallic accents or the richness of leather. Accessories and styling follow this same direction: assertive heels, tightly pulled-back hair, and minimal makeup—all aimed at defining a feminine figure that is both commanding and elusive. What sets the collection apart is its narrative breadth: from bold, urban silhouettes reminiscent of ’80s leather-clad icons to historical references drawn from Saint Laurent’s couture heritage. Vaccarello paints a visual story built on bold contrasts: leather-clad princesses à la Mapplethorpe, adorned with regal jewelry; fearless, powerful women in brightly colored Rive Gauche silhouettes made of airy fabrics; imaginary descendants of the Duchess of Guermantes or Sargent’s “Madame X” who trade silk for technical textiles.
Fashion is both a visual and symbolic expression. In this case, beauty is not a single ideal but a plurality—a spectrum of aesthetics and imaginaries that, though linked to distant worlds, reach the audience powerfully and clearly, creating a defined style in their mind. Anthony Vaccarello’s SS26 collection is an argument through which the Maison presents its own vision of how to make clothes.
