MANIFESTO

#64

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

NOTIONS OF EVOLUTION

2025.01.24

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

Kim Jones takes a journey through the archives of the Maison Dior, gestures and delicacy of feminine Couture characters are transported to the male scenario.

The history of clothing, the history of fashion, the archives of a Maison with irreplaceable heritage. This is where Kim Jones’ research for the upcoming Men’s Fall/Winter 25 collection starts. The homage to Couture takes us back to his debut as creative director of the brand’s men’s section, with the traditionally feminine characters also being brought back to the wardrobe of a modern, history-conscious man with an essential, wandering character. The other major reference is to Monsieur Dior’s 1954 H-line, which accentuates the low waist while emphasizing and slimming the length of the leg. The volumes enter into contrast and dialogue with the definition of the forms, the défilé opens with an austere and theatrical aura. The air is ghostly, and the vertical white staircase gives the show a feeling of pure essence. A direct, material narrative, synthesized at the hinge of a much larger discourse, and perhaps even celestial in appearance. The minimal clean lines make us fall in love with each garment, the romantic vein appears in the details, and brings us back to the human state of existence. Deconstruction contrasts the palette, as well as the materials. Tailoring blends with characters from the utilitarian world. The combination of fabrics is studied in every detail.

Black holds sway for the first few looks to come out on the runway, soon muted by candid shades of warm white and soft pink. Much like the evolution of a man’s life, soon purity is dirtied by splashes of grays and browns, always in dusty tones, and never intrusive. Individually stitched, metallic details and cascades of glitter embellish the whole. Blouses show themselves in satin, with wide, slouchy necklines; leather bomber jackets become ultra-short, padded or worked; coats feature flared shapes and medium lengths; double-breasted blazers look stiff and are inspired by military tunic jackets; robes echo the lines the oriental kimonos. Materials are shiny and opaque, soft and floaty but also compact and important. Tailoring remains a focal point of the narrative, the line is made more energetic by archival interpretations, the detail of bows is reimagined through an almost edgy rigor, appearing on the backs and sleeves of jackets, down to eye masks. Leather accessories are imperceptible, small and hand-carried, or the center of the look, from long handles and even larger shapes.

A skillful reconstruction of classic and unconscious characters that have made the history of a Maison, a careful study of how the contemporary world is able to rework unquestionably unique codes. The research continues through symbols, constructions, contrasts, gestures, and brought back to life a new masculine fit. It is a kind of time travel, a metamorphosis of the garment itself, representing the mutability of human life. Men’s fashion is elevated to Couture, through the roots of the Maison and with great delicacy and sincerity. Nothing is shouted, but whispered, barely revealed, and nothing is left to chance, everything is thought out in mini details to represent a determined idea of masculine character.

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