MANIFESTO

#64

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

THE BEAUTY OF PAPER

2024.09.28

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

What is it about paper that makes us feel so comfortable? Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2025 focuses on the history and craftsmanship of paper. An element around which all the experimentation of the next summer collection revolves. Nature becomes the medium for the story of a fashion that is pure and authentic, poetic and in part even primitive.

From plants and water, the abundance of nature,
A piece of paper is handmade.

 

Light, soft, enveloping:
touching it gives a sense of rootedness.
It reflects light as it absorbs it:
Its colour conveys a feeling of purity.

 

Part of our everyday life since the distant past,
It fills our minds and empowers us,
thanks to its poetry that seems to be timeless,
Around us, paper is omnipresent.
All we have to do is perceive it.

 

 

Paper is a ubiquitous material in our daily lives, the research presented here explores its simplest characteristics, and the feelings it evokes. Paper is simple, it is light, but it is resistant, it is strong. Paper tells stories, it grows old and invigorates, it gets coloured, it gets wet and becomes authentic in every footprint. Various experimental sartorial studies have been conducted on paper, the discoveries made have influenced techniques and design, and the resulting garments thus honour the work of skilled craftsmen in the round. The poetry of paper is thus mixed with the elegant and modern fashion of the défilé, conveying the importance of today and at the same time the memory of a vivid past.

The first EAU series is the one in which we are catapulted by the light, almost imperceptible sound that opens the show, the ticking of falling water and the roar of its flow. Just like this first series, designed in soft, transparent fabric, fixed to create loosely structured draperies, with folds and flaps that are reminiscent of the flowing water. Three-dimensionality is instead the point around which the garments in the FOLD TO FORM series revolve. The material used is the brand’s latest development; its elasticity and lightness give the silhouette the ability to adapt to the wearer’s body. EASE AND EASED, on the other hand, fully defines the concept of the collection, the fabric falls and glides over the body, light and airy, and is designed to be shaped with paper. Hemp is used in the HEMPEN series, the fabric this time is dyed and then coated to become functional and practical while retaining its natural lightness. WEAR AND WORN, on the other hand, is a symbol of experimentation, is based on the idea of combining two garments, and is synonymous with versatility. The combination of technology and modernity gives new aspects to the brand’s typical workmanship. Delicate prints of peonies, PRESSED FLORA, buttercups and asparagus leaves peep out, light but fascinating, which leave through the pressing process small accidental folds in the fabric, so as to make the garment also unique and characteristic. CLOTH AND CORD on the other hand is made from whole pieces of fabric, it has an almost primitive and raw look, with the linen yarn being gathered into cotton cords creating a more relaxed silhouette. A sheer, diagonally folded fabric, on the other hand, forms SHADE AND SHADED, and creates a much more structured contrast between paper and folds. PAPER BAG on the other hand is a true homage to the everyday, to ordinary paper bags. The fabric that is made maintains a precise and compact shape, has consistency and strength suitable for use and the lightness that paper has instead.

The stools used for seating are a further step in the search for materials. The sheets of paper previously used for the various pleating processes are compressed into cylinders, resulting in these natural stools. The incredible element is the central marbling reminiscent of the core of a tree trunk with a clear indication of the passage of time. Once again, the skilful craftsmanship of the brand and its team tells of natural aspects that become inseparable from a fashion narrative firmly rooted in the past. A craftsmanship and attention to detail that pays homage to the brand’s history. A fresh and lively collection, dynamic and young, modern and concrete, aimed at creating a sensationally everyday imagery.

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