Free Rein

2025.10.05

Text MUSE Magazine

Hermès Spring/Summer 2026: Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski blends artisanal techniques, equestrian references, and a formal design approach to translate the idea of freedom into a modern, feminine language.

With the Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski reinterprets the Maison’s equestrian heritage through a savoir-faire that merges sartorial precision with the craft of saddlery. The world of horsemanship takes center stage: the designer weaves together the expertise of the saddler with tailoring artistry to create garments that appear shaped by time and wear, like a Camargue saddle preserved in the brand’s archives. At the heart of this vision is a woman who embodies the perfect balance of strength and delicacy. The feminine figure Hermès evokes is a rider given “free rein”—self-assured and seemingly suspended in a space between tradition and nature. The result is a collection defined by silhouettes that move with purpose and ease. Hand-waxed leather, buckles, rings, and straps bring together functionality and craftsmanship in a gesture of refined elegance. There are no grand theatrics during the show, no need for spectacle: the focus is entirely on the construction, the materials, the colors—and above all, on a vision of femininity rooted in heritage, yet shaped by a modern sense of freedom.

Watching the show, the central role of leather is immediately clear, Hermès’s signature material, transformed into something soft and pliable, perfectly contouring the body with a sensual, contemporary feel. Among the standout pieces: a cropped riding jacket paired with asymmetrical quilted linen skirts, while long coats echo the iconic trench, cinched at the waist with harness-style belts that sharply define the silhouette. Fluid volumes, enhanced by structured brassieres, are combined with draping and bold prints in a refined interplay of contrasts. Quilted dresses, reminiscent of corsets, hug the body through lacing and belts, worn over cycling shorts—a nod to a more dynamic, sport-inflected take on tradition.

“It’s also a land of bohemians, gypsies and freedom. I wanted to bring this zest of freedom to equestrian style, which is often associated with the strict and the rational. I wanted to let go and give it a sense of spontaneity and fullness.”

-Nadège Vanhee

Amid the clear reading of Hermès’ signature codes, a moment of rupture emerges, a subtle yet notable addition: the use of floral prints. Delicate, nature-inspired motifs appear on shirts, mini dresses with cut-out details, and deconstructed jackets. The color palette is a masterclass in the use of neutrals, remaining true to Hermès’ timeless elegance: beige, brown, navy, and black are accented with flashes of bright red, plum, and burnt orange. It’s a chromatic choice that reflects Vanhee’s ability to evolve the house’s language without ever compromising its identity.

Framing a clean, unembellished aesthetic is a carefully chosen location: the Garde Républicaine, headquarters of Paris’s historic military unit. This choice perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the entire collection. It was here that Hermès presented 57 looks inspired by the figure of the modern amazon. Further reinforcing the narrative, the floor of the entire space was covered in sand, evoking equestrian arenas. With this collection, Hermès reaffirms its deep connection to themes of nature and tradition, an alliance the Maison continues to reinterpret season after season, here telling the story of a sophisticated and free woman, a rider who is both guardian and muse.

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