Véronique Nichanian is not bound by the concept of time, not even when reflecting on her 37 years as creative director of Hermès menswear—a challenge that was anything but simple. Yet throughout all these years, she has carried forward a unique, precise, heartfelt, and sincere vision. For her, nothing has changed: this collection suggests it could just as easily have been presented seasons ago. Her approach has never shifted; from the very first day, she had a clear idea of what the Hermès man should be. A modern yet classical figure, attentive to fashion but deeply in love with craftsmanship and detail. An extremely elegant presence. The ligne claire, as she herself defines it, has always remained the same, and it is exactly what was brought to the runway one last time this evening in Paris. There was, however, a playful twist in the show—or rather, more than a change, it should be described as an even stronger continuum: the choice to bring back onto the runway certain pieces already presented in past collections. Choices and elements that are fundamental to her design, her work, and her history within the Maison. Another dimension Nichanian has masterfully worked with is emotion. The awareness of not creating “wow” fashion has always allowed her to build on the desire to move people, to tell all the sensations that fashion contains. The truest, most unique, and most direct feeling that can exist in the human soul: love.
“From the beginning, I had a straight line in my mind about the men’s collection for Hermès. I am still keeping the same ligne claire, as we say in French. It’s exactly that.”
The presented collection is supremely elegant—never excessive, always precise and thoughtfully conceived. Leather, natural and earthy tones, the soft lines of the coats and the cropped cuts of the jackets, shirts with deep necklines. Turtleneck sweaters are tucked into trousers, which are slightly shortened in length with the waist raised just enough and cinched by smooth leather belts; some have a punk edge, with delicate chains dangling over deep pockets. Alongside a nonchalant palette of black, grey, brown, and blue, there are bolder colours like mustard, sky blue, and coral. The oversized handbags carried by hand perhaps symbolise the collection of narratives built over these years. Every look is capable of telling the story of a man in his daily life. The proportions are perfect; no garment feels out of place. White shirts peek out from under warm shearling coats worn open, with raw lapels visible, while leather shirts modernise double-breasted suits with clean, streamlined lines. Cashmere blousons and parkas serve as the sportier alternatives, alongside coats in leather and glossy crocodile. It is essential that the man expresses his sensuality: a leather jumpsuit appears, fitted and cinched at the waist, with asymmetrical zippers adding modernity to the look. Everything is balanced yet in motion, evolving. Fashion is evolution. Innovation and surprise open the door to multiple possibilities of interpretation for clothing that is not only for today but also for forever.
“We are in time of images. My clothes are not ‘wow’—no disproportion. My clothes are very emotional. L’émotion, bien sûr. That can come through an image, but when you feel it… It’s sensuality I’m talking about. Sensuality isn’t a picture.”
The wardrobe created for the Hermès Homme Winter 26 collection is imbued with masterful craftsmanship, coherence, and recognisability. Hermès’ past is extraordinary—savoir-faire and modernity coexist, contemporary freedom and know-how engage in dialogue. Each season has continued the conversation started by the previous one, writing numerous chapters of the same story, filled with enthusiasm and positivity, love, and passion. Reality is the Maison’s guiding principle: garments and objects are meant to endure over time. Cutting-edge technologies merge with unmatched-quality fabrics, allowing the creation of clothing that transcends space and the limits of physical time. The Hermès man possesses great sensitivity; he is curious, open, and driven to discover himself and others. The Maison’s dual thread resurfaces in the spirit of creation: attention to the lifestyles of its clients and the meticulous work of artisans. Society’s evolution is reflected in the passing of the creative baton for Hermès menswear. The story written by Véronique Nichanian now makes way for the modern character of English designer Grace Wales Bonner, chosen to honour entire generations of heritage.
