MANIFESTO

#65

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

GUCCI CHASES SUNSETS

2024.09.20

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

For the Spring 2025 collection, Sabato De Sarno captures the essence of an endless summer, blending bold tailoring with relaxed, androgynous silhouettes.

As it fades like a summer sunset, the runway of Gucci’s Spring 2025 divides into rooms, each characterized by a different shade of white and orange. The collection opens with tailoring in its most essential, yet never conventional form: wide and soft pants cut over sneakers fuse the feminine wardrobe with a androgynous approach and a relaxed vibe; the color palette includes anthracite gray, red, white, and shades of green and orange. The silhouettes pay homage to the Sixties, with structured jackets, short shorts, and A-line skirts, while the grand coats with a couture attitude, finely constructed, breathe new life into the GG Monogram and are designed for real life, worn effortlessly with denim and a small tank top. Glossy-finished leather has now become an integral part of the brand’s DNA. Lingerie delicately reveals itself beneath lace dresses and through slightly open coats, reflecting that casual grandeur that has been intrinsic to Gucci since its origins. It is no coincidence that the Maison continues and strengthens its dialogue with the Triennale di Milano, increasingly intertwining its identity with the museum’s values: a commitment to an open and inclusive cultural exchange, and the desire to unite art, design, architecture, and contemporary thought. After celebrating these spaces with the men’s show, particularly the new Cuore archive, Gucci now transforms them into a vibrant corridor of colors, igniting from white to Gucci Rosso Ancora.

“An effortless grandeur that takes shape through my obsessions — like tailoring, lingerie, leather, and ’60s silhouettes — combined with an unrelenting exploration of this brand’s heritage. And with an irreverent attitude, always”.

– Sabato De Sarno

Bamboo takes center stage, with bags retaining their original structure while being updated with contemporary details through masterful craftsmanship using leather, enamel, and plexiglass. Bamboo also inspires the jewelry, which mimics its form and twists to follow the body’s contours, the same elements that fasten the fluid jersey dresses inspired by the 1990s, as well as the square-toed platform sandals. Bags with bamboo details alternate on the runway with mini bags, including the Gucci 73 bucket bag featuring a lateral horsebit, and the new Gucci Go, structured and compact, made for effortless carrying. Completing the looks are Gucci Bamboo 1947 bags, reimagined by Japanese artists as part of a collaborative project celebrating Gucci’s 60th anniversary in Japan. The horsebit remains a central element in footwear, previously featured on iconic wedge loafers, but also on creepers, platforms, ballet flats, and ankle boots. Now, it appears on a soft, enveloping flat boot with a distinct Sixties attitude, just like the XL sunglasses with gradient lenses in the collection’s colors. Finally, the Gucci Flora scarf, tied around the head, appears in its original version—featuring nine bouquets on a white background with a contrasting border—yet is also reinvented as a canvas for tonal color play that follows the collection’s palette. The show culminates with a series of contemporary jet-set looks: oversized coats with floor-sweeping hems, paired with tank tops and boyish jeans.

“A year later, this collection tells the story of a completed journey. Moment by moment, I have solidified my vision for Gucci”.

– Sabato De Sarno

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