Bird on a mushroom
I saw the beauty at once
Then gone, flown away
(Anonymous haiku)
This short piece was chosen by Chanel to immerse the reader in the universe of the Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Simple and delicate lines, composed of words that capture an ephemeral moment or a gentle, suspended emotion.
The fabrics are intangible, almost imperceptible, fluttering and sliding along the body; the effect is enhanced by nude colours and sheer transparency. The craftsmanship is the most meticulous aspect of the collection. Everything revolves around the Maison’s artisanal mastery and the constructional skill of its Creative Director. The material is elegant and is used as a canvas to start from—a fixed point from which to begin again, in complete freedom. With the decision to use such light and extremely ephemeral materials, it was also necessary to include more tactile and practical elements in the narrative of the runway. The colours feature impeccable combinations, contrasts that highlight fabrics, detailing, and embellishments. The various looks seem to take ever more form, ever more structure. The iconic Chanel suit opens the show, as a tribute to the memory of Gabrielle’s work—a love letter with a gentle soul directed at material and construction—and evolves into a little black dress with lines that are both sensual and sophisticated.
“Haute Couture is the very soul of Chanel—it is the foundation and the full expression of the House. These are clothes that are as much about the wearer as the designer. It’s the clothes worn that give them a true story; their own story and an emotional resonance, giving women a canvas to tell their own story.”
The collection plays with light and transparent fabrics: gauzes, tulle, and muslins alternate, enriched with refined lace and precious embroidery. The layers move lightly, leaving nothing to the imagination, concealing no emotion. They tell of a happy, playful, and spontaneous life. The color palette is wide and varied; alongside the initial nude tones, red, green, yellow, pink, and black make an appearance. Everything seems to reflect an evolutionary process—a growth, a different perception from look to look. As the collection unfolds, fashion becomes increasingly present: embroidered pearls adorn the suits, feathers appear on the hems of the dresses. The reinterpretation of tweed, as seen in the debut of the ready-to-wear collection, takes center stage once again—now even rendered in silk organza. Once again, Blazy demonstrates his remarkable ability not merely to recount the Maison’s heritage, but to represent in a modern and contemporary way what a brand can express in relation to the present day. From this emerges the collection’s final look: a wedding dress built on the structure of a suit, clearly white, adorned with delicate pearl flakes that reflect the light and convey a unique sense of lightness.
The heart of Chanel is a true emotional exchange between those who create the looks and those who wear them; the body merges with the soul, the garment merges with emotion. Time seems suspended, the atmosphere is magical and enchanted, and the picturesque setting created around the collection allows for an even greater focus on individuality. The concept of poignancy is evident—a deeply felt but delicate emotional quality that touches profound chords. The soundscape also accompanies this journey: it begins with light notes mixed with natural bird calls and ends with the sound of Bitter Sweet Symphony by The Verve blending with the words of Wonderwall by Oasis. Every detail strikes just the right chord; it is immediate. Matthieu Blazy’s vision is a collection of characters that lingers, that moves without shouting, that is not necessarily spectacular but profoundly authentic. Another key element of the entire creative process is metamorphosis: the woman depicted embarks on a journey celebrating the free and spiritual nature of her character, transforming into a bird. The bird symbolises lightness, elegance, and freedom. The natural world aligns with the human one, and all the archetypes of Chanel and Matthieu Blazy become part of an enchanting dream world.
