In the historic halls of the rue Vivienne headquarters, models walk the runway in looks that feel borrowed from memory—yet subtly updated. The American designer had already played a key role during Celine’s celebrated Phoebe Philo era. On the runway, we see the choice to merge the men’s and women’s collections into a single show—a clear statement of coherence. There is no longer a separation of codes, but rather a fluidity of vision that reinforces the idea of style as a daily gesture, rather than a form of disguise. Stylistically, this intention translates into a harmonious interplay of oversized silhouettes and sharp tailoring: flowing trench coats, blazers with broad shoulders and cinched waists, sweaters casually draped over the shoulders.
References to the maison’s historical triad—Céline Vipiana, Phoebe Philo, and Hedi Slimane—are easy to spot, yet handled with intent and awareness. These aren’t mere quotations, but layered echoes of different moments in CELINE’s evolution: Philo’s precision, Slimane’s rock-infused edge, and the sophisticated, bourgeois roots of the founder all blend together, filtered through Rider’s own ironic and refined lens.
Retro details—argyle knits, loosely tied scarves, pleated trousers—appear, at times exaggerated in proportion. The baroque impulse to decorate and embellish is present, yet never overwhelming. That’s because this collection feels designed to be lived in, not just shown off. From the new raffia and nappa leather bags to the reimagined Phantom Luggage, every element is crafted to accompany the wearer—never overpower them.
Rider has proposed a kind of fashion that isn’t in a rush to be understood—one that takes its time to unfold and to endure. It’s a counter-current choice in a system that so often demands immediacy. Yet in this moment of transition for the entire fashion system, Celine seems to have found a new voice.
“CELINE stands for quality, for timelessness and for style, ideals that are difficult to catch, and even harder to hold on to, to define, despite more and more talk about them out there.”
