Nostalgia is not what drives Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first collection for Balenciaga. Nor is it a simple exercise in style based on history. It’s something more subtle, and in a way, more radical: a quiet rewriting of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s language, starting from his foundational codes. Piccioli chooses to return to the essence of fashion, to that intimate point of contact between body and garment, an abstract space that separates, or perhaps connects, these two worlds. His vision is built around a clear idea: fashion as a constant tension between technique and soul, a process that brings together Balenciaga’s almost scientific precision with the romantic sensibility of its new creative director. With this debut, Piccioli hasn’t erased any part of the Maison’s heritage—not the legacy of its founder, nor that of the great names who followed, nor even the recent era under his predecessor. On the contrary, he manages to speak to all the different souls of Balenciaga, winning over both archive enthusiasts and long-time followers of Demna’s era.
There is an intense archival research behind the collection, and it becomes evident the moment the first look steps onto the runway: a clear reference to the iconic 1957 Sack Dress. References to the founder are numerous and unmistakable, yet they blend seamlessly with Piccioli’s own vision, which comes through just as strongly. His signature lies in the graceful, sculptural silhouettes and in the bold, radical use of color. Volumes are central to the collection and showcase remarkable sartorial precision: while structured and generous, they are far from being heavy armors that restrict movement. This is where the true revolution lies—lightness as both a starting point in the design process and a final goal, not merely as an aesthetic effect. The work on fabric is arguably the most emblematic aspect of the entire collection. The “neo-gazar” is a new interpretation of the famed material originally developed by Balenciaga in 1958. Piccioli doesn’t simply revive a historic textile; he builds a bridge between past and present by reinventing it through contemporary materials. Structured yet fluid, neo-gazar is crafted through a double weave that combines gauze and organza, enriched with a silk and wool thread that softens its stiffness. The result is a sculptural fabric, perfectly suited for tailoring. Once again, the balance between volume and lightness is fully realized.
“We exist in feeling, in recognition, in the memory of who we have been and in the imagination of who we will become. What brought me here has been a journey saturated with emotions, pushing me forward with force—not only teaching me, but revealing parts of myself I hardly knew.”
Through a carefully curated selection of garments, the designer reveals what the Maison truly represents to him. It starts with familiar pieces such as leather jackets, chinos, t-shirts, and knitwear. But the proportions have shifted, transforming the familiar into something entirely new. Embroideries, whether feathers or flowers crafted from the same fabric, don’t serve a decorative purpose, but rather a sculptural one. Surfaces aren’t just visually appealing, they speak a language closer to architecture than to ornament, another key element Piccioli focuses on, and one that has always defined Balenciaga’s identity. Even knitwear, typically soft and casual, takes on new shape, becoming firmer, almost structural. Completing the picture are the accessories: oversized, bug-eye sunglasses, chunky platform sandals, and ultra-long gloves reaching up to the elbow. These details echo the brand’s recognizable aesthetic, yet fit seamlessly into this new, more deliberate and constructed vision.
An intimate yet rigorous setting hosts Piccioli’s first show at the helm of Balenciaga: a Parisian salon reimagined for the occasion, imbued with the scent of Getaria, the fragrance dedicated to Balenciaga’s hometown. Lastly, the designer’s most meaningful gesture lies here: paying tribute to the founder of the Maison, not with nostalgia, but with precision and an acute attention to detail. With all the right tools in hand, Piccioli performs a surgical operation on Balenciaga’s identity. A debut that dares not to please everyone, but instead speaks to those willing to truly listen.
